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Old 10-27-2020, 09:14 PM   #11
sigfla45
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Default Re: torque vs speed slow driving

Well it appears I was wrong. The Sony head unit I have required 10 full seconds after the key is off or the button turns it off for the memory to store. It seems to be keeping memory now without issue. I think it’s turning off at high volume bc the head unit I bought has a small amp in it. As the volume increases the 30 amp power converter can’t keep up. I can see my converter voltage fluctuate at high volume sometimes down to 11 volts when the bass hits. I think between it and my sub amp it’s just drawing too much. Luckily my stereo has a max volume setting so if I keep it at 37 vs 50 it won’t shut off. I wonder if there is a fix for that. I know in the old days when I was into car stereo you could put a (capacitor?) between your battery and amp and it would store power to keep your amp from drawing too much when bass hit.
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Old 10-28-2020, 06:46 AM   #12
mfinnegan
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Default Re: torque vs speed slow driving

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Originally Posted by sigfla45 View Post
As the volume increases the 30 amp power converter can’t keep up. I can see my converter voltage fluctuate at high volume sometimes down to 11 volts when the bass hits.
that would annoy me greatly, i actually just went with a 60a converter so i would have zero issues
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Old 10-28-2020, 07:59 AM   #13
Sergio
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Default Re: torque vs speed slow driving

That 10 seconds to save settings does not make much sense, is this a marine instead of a car head unit?

Your 30 amp converter should be plenty for the head unit, make sure everything is wired properly like 10ga wire with good connections.

Another option is to get a second cheap 4 wire connector to power the subwoofer since you don't have a low impedance power source.

Use a 12v relay activated by the head unit "remote amp output" (usually blue/white) to provide +48v to the second converter.
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:35 AM   #14
sigfla45
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Default Re: torque vs speed slow driving

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Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
That 10 seconds to save settings does not make much sense, is this a marine instead of a car head unit?

Your 30 amp converter should be plenty for the head unit, make sure everything is wired properly like 10ga wire with good connections.

Another option is to get a second cheap 4 wire connector to power the subwoofer since you don't have a low impedance power source.

Use a 12v relay activated by the head unit "remote amp output" (usually blue/white) to provide +48v to the second converter.
Yes it is a marine unit. As far as the amp draw I figured it would be enough but my stereo instructions say the unit could draw up to 15 amps and it’s very specific on wire gauge to ensure proper power. I did some research and I think it’s likely not super efficient but for a 100wx4 head unit it’s what I wanted to power things. The bazooka isn’t as clear on amp draw but it takes a 30 amp fuse so I assume it’s pushing the limits as well. I really think my solution is to add back my accessory 12v agm to the buss bar and charge it separately from the cart as an aux support to the load being put on the converter.
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