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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 10-20-2020, 11:22 AM   #11
jneubig
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Default Re: Solenoid plastic melted off - RXV came to immediate halt

Just to state the obvious, the 23" tires you are running with the original controller and electronics is already taxing the system before it starts to climb anything. It is always a strong suggestion on here to upgrade to the 350 if using tires larger than 20.5" on the RXV platform.
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Old 10-20-2020, 11:38 AM   #12
DB Cooper
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Default Re: Solenoid plastic melted off - RXV came to immediate halt

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Originally Posted by jneubig View Post
Just to state the obvious, the 23" tires you are running with the original controller and electronics is already taxing the system before it starts to climb anything. It is always a strong suggestion on here to upgrade to the 350 if using tires larger than 20.5" on the RXV platform.
Yeah, I'm well aware of that. I somewhat agreed to buy the car before finding this site, so it's always been in the cards that I'd need this 350A controller, I expected I'd do better than most since I don't drive that far or do any off-roading/crazy stuff, but alas, there's definitely now a pure phobia of steep hills. If my controller isn't already fried, we'll see when we replace the solenoid, I'll be trying to get my hands on one ASAP. Just trying to see the sequence of events, clearly power coming from the battery into the solenoid was the point that broke. Just wondering all the factors of the heat...

The cart is still under warranty, and I told the guy before I picked it up about the 23" issue, and he said he's never seen anyone actually burn up a Curtis 235A despite 23s, so if he has to pony up to replace the controller (presumably with another 235A), we'll see how he reacts. If that's the case, I'll see if I can just pay the difference and get the 350 A in there.

I did order 2AWG wires this morning. Does anyone have a recommended ignition/tow/power sequence for replacing these? I intend to replace each wire one by one so I don't miss-wire. That said, I imagine I should be in tow with ignition off. Is there a preferred order of operation here? Similarly, if I'm to replace the controller myself down the road, is there a preferred order of operation for that?

Thanks
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Old 10-20-2020, 12:39 PM   #13
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Default Re: Solenoid plastic melted off - RXV came to immediate halt

For those interested, here is a picture of the hill that caused this.

Starting point was the end of a culdesac. We just run down this same hill and some other minor hills. In the last photo, the car died right around where the blue VW Beetle is and parked right near the mailbox.

Major fortunate situation in the sense that the cart died on flat, and my friend lives in the last house you can see on the right (white with the grey roof) and he had a trailer and truck in his driveway due to a construction project.











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Old 10-20-2020, 12:53 PM   #14
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Default Re: Solenoid plastic melted off - RXV came to immediate halt

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I did order 2AWG wires this morning. Does anyone have a recommended ignition/tow/power sequence for replacing these? I intend to replace each wire one by one so I don't miss-wire. That said, I imagine I should be in tow with ignition off. Is there a preferred order of operation here? Similarly, if I'm to replace the controller myself down the road, is there a preferred order of operation for that?

Thanks
Yep. Key switch off and run/tow switch in tow. Really a simple swap on the RXV. Just have battery jumpers and positive to solenoid, negative to controller. No motor wires to mess with. With regards to a controller swap, it's really simple also. Just a wire to wire swap. Everything on the 235 goes to the same place on the 350.
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Old 10-20-2020, 01:01 PM   #15
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Default Re: Solenoid plastic melted off - RXV came to immediate halt

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Originally Posted by jneubig View Post
Yep. Key switch off and run/tow switch in tow. Really a simple swap on the RXV. Just have battery jumpers and positive to solenoid, negative to controller. No motor wires to mess with. With regards to a controller swap, it's really simple also. Just a wire to wire swap. Everything on the 235 goes to the same place on the 350.
Thank you? I think I also have a solenoid to controller 2AWG in my kit as well, but that should be pretty straight forward.
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Old 10-20-2020, 01:46 PM   #16
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Default Re: Solenoid plastic melted off - RXV came to immediate halt

The ring terminal is hitting the plastic (green circle). Trim the edge of the ring as shown by the line to create clearance as indicated by the line. The poor connection caused heat, which melted the plastic. You cant just "pop it back in there", that's definitely not gonna work.
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Old 10-20-2020, 01:48 PM   #17
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Default Re: Solenoid plastic melted off - RXV came to immediate halt

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The ring terminal is hitting the plastic (green circle). Trim the edge of the ring as shown by the line to create clearance as indicated by the line. The poor connection caused heat, which melted the plastic. You cant just "pop it back in there", that's definitely not gonna work.
Thanks, I assumed that generated more heat (the weak connection). Yeah my pop it back in was more of a just test to see if I could crank the ignition briefly to avoid the solenoid click off. Wouldn't be serviceable, more just a test to cure curiosity.

Thanks for your continued help. 2AWG wiring is being shipped from ACDC as we speak, I felt the wiring that came with the cart looked a bit dated and thin.

I am SUPER glad you sent that picture, I was not picturing that exact issue even from the prior great explanations. THANK YOU!
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Old 10-26-2020, 03:28 PM   #18
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Default Re: Solenoid plastic melted off - RXV came to immediate halt

Update, new solenoid installed, pictures attached. I also did the 2 gauge wiring, and I hope this proves to be a tighter fit. I used a torque wrench to the specs on the Trombetta. Not sure if anyone sees any room for improvement on connections now.

Turning on, and everything worked fine, single click solenoid, brake release, and life is good now. I had a guy with a handheld look at faults, he said there was only a "Master Power" fault or something like that. I asked him about any Over Currents and he said there weren't any.

Anyways, it's working for now, still going to jump on a controller deal when I get a chance. The weather is bad here, but I did drive it half a block. I think the initial torque is a bit higher. If I jab the gas pedal it reacts faster/harder than before, but could be placebo. Perhaps the tighter connection and better cabling is working a bit more efficiently.
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