2011 TXTE 48V no go

[Frustr8ted]

Hello,

I have a 2011 TXTE 48V cart with stock controller that doesn't move. I fear the motor or controller may be bad. Here is what I have checked thus far.

Solenoid clicks when pedal is depressed.
50V at solenoid across large poles, 50v at small pole.
50V to controller.
50V to motor.
Charge port working perfect.
PDS switch working.

Any ideas on what to check next would be greatly appreciated.

[JohnnieB]

The solenoid clicks when pedal is pushed, so the problem is in the high amp circuit. (Thick cables, Solenoid contacts, Armature windings, Brushes and controller, plus the ITS throttle and the lower amp Field circuitry)

You are most likely measuring from the battery pack's main negative to the various points listed and it appears you have B+ on the controller's B+ terminal as well as the motor's A2 terminal, so that more or less eliminates the solenoid contacts and eight of the ten thick cables. The cable from motor A1 to controller M- and the cable from battery pack B- to controller B- need to be checked to eliminate all 10 high amp cables.

If all 10 cables are good, connect your DVM negative test lead to the controller's B- terminal and positive test lead to the controller's M- terminal.
Should be battery pack voltage when pedal is pushed just far enough to make pedal click.

If so, slowly push pedal to floor and voltage should smoothly decrease to zero volts.

If you don't get pack voltage when solenoid first clicks, then there is an open
in the motor armature circuit, brushes being the most likely suspect.


Here's a schematic of the drive system and a service manual.

[Frustr8ted]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The solenoid clicks when pedal is pushed, so the problem is in the high amp circuit. (Thick cables, Solenoid contacts, Armature windings, Brushes and controller, plus the ITS throttle and the lower amp Field circuitry)

You are most likely measuring from the battery pack's main negative to the various points listed and it appears you have B+ on the controller's B+ terminal as well as the motor's A2 terminal, so that more or less eliminates the solenoid contacts and eight of the ten thick cables. The cable from motor A1 to controller M- and the cable from battery pack B- to controller B- need to be checked to eliminate all 10 high amp cables.

If all 10 cables are good, connect your DVM negative test lead to the controller's B- terminal and positive test lead to the controller's M- terminal.
Should be battery pack voltage when pedal is pushed just far enough to make pedal click.

If so, slowly push pedal to floor and voltage should smoothly decrease to zero volts.

If you don't get pack voltage when solenoid first clicks, then there is an open
in the motor armature circuit, brushes being the most likely suspect.


Here's a schematic of the drive system and a service manual.

Thank you for the advice JohnnieB.

I have continuity between motor A1 and controller M- as well as pack B- and controller B-.

I have pack voltage between controller B- and M- prior to depressing throttle. When throttle is depressed voltage drops to 42 Volts and rises back to 51V.

Thought on this?

R/

[JohnnieB]

Check the voltage on the black wire (Pin-2) from the ITS sensor.

How to is on page E-10 of service manual I attached above.

[Frustr8ted]

Voltage is within range and plunger is correctly adjusted.
I'm wondering if there is a diagnostics similar to an OBDII like for cars.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Frustr8ted

Voltage is within range and plunger is correctly adjusted.
I'm wondering if there is a diagnostics similar to an OBDII like for cars.

There is, see sections R and S in the service manual, but like the OBDII codes, you need a reader. (Curtis model 1311 or similar)

----------
If the controller is bad, replace it with an Alltrax XCT48400-TXT48 user programmable controller.

[Frustr8ted]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

There is, see sections R and S in the service manual, but like the OBDII codes, you need a reader. (Curtis model 1311 or similar)

----------
If the controller is bad, replace it with an Alltrax XCT48400-TXT48 user programmable controller.

Thank you JohnnieB for all of your help. I think I'm going to take the cart to my local shop and have them run diagnostics on it as I think I've checked all I can with the available tools. I will be sure to Post the results in the event somebody has a similar problem.

R/
Frustr8ted.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Frustr8ted

Thank you JohnnieB for all of your help. I think I'm going to take the cart to my local shop and have them run diagnostics on it as I think I've checked all I can with the available tools. I will be sure to Post the results in the event somebody has a similar problem.

R/
Frustr8ted.

[Frustr8ted]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Hey JohnnieB,

Thanks again for all of your help. The problem was the controller. I replaced it with an AllTrax unit. the cart is working great.

R/
Frustr8ted.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Frustr8ted

Hey JohnnieB,

Thanks again for all of your help. The problem was the controller. I replaced it with an AllTrax unit. the cart is working great.

R/
Frustr8ted.

Glad to hear you got it going.

Thanks for the feedback.