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Old 03-18-2011, 07:01 PM   #1
pachanga90
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Default Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

As i have posted and responded to posts in the past,My cart has 22" tires w/5" lift.I removed the govenor,Shimmed the Drive-Clutch 3/16" and Shimmed the Driven the same,but also removed the spacer between the sheaves.This was with a stock belt and performance is excellent,tons of low-end,quick take-off and fast speed-gain.23mph top end.After alot of posts about the Dayco short belt,I tried it.Performance fell way off from take-off thru top-end.Tonite I switched back to the stock-belt,and added another 3/16" shim on the Drive-Clutch for a total of 3/8".WOW,very,very impressive.I'm going to try it out in the trails tomorrow,but i think this is the trick.Let me know what you guys think.I think the short belt may work with the stock clutches,but it doesn't like the modded clutching.
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Old 03-25-2011, 01:10 PM   #2
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Default Re: Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

how did you shim the drive-clutch i didn't know you could.how did the trails go
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Old 03-25-2011, 04:35 PM   #3
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Default Re: Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

I use 1-1/8" u-bolt washers(3/16" thick and grade-.I started with one 3 yrs.ago.Now i added a second one.It works great,I'm gonna do some more testing this weekend,but so far it feels good.I had it out in some foot-deep snow-drifts last nite and it didn't even slow down.I keep updating as i go.
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:24 PM   #4
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Default Re: Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

where do the washers go on the drive clutch? i going to shim my driven clutch tomorrow.please keep me updated on your finds
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Old 03-26-2011, 07:31 AM   #5
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Default Re: Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

Remove the spring,put the washers under the spring,against the spider.Then reassemble.Like i said earlier,This is all with a stock belt.I saw a drop in performance with the short-belt with these mods.
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:02 PM   #6
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Default Re: Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

I finally got out to the trails this week,My wife on the cart,with one of my 3yr.old twins("The-Boss").I told her to climb this fallen tree that dropped during the last storm.It was about 4"-6" off the ground and about 6"-8" in diameter.She came up to it,got about 3' from it,dropped the hammer and walked right over it like it was a twig.No tire-spin,grunt,anything!I almost fell off the quad laughing,Twin #2("Thrill-Seeker") was goin " Is Mommy gona jump it?"I said I hope so!And it did!Later I took Thrill-Seeker out on a flat-out run thru Mud,Water,etc..It didn't bog-down,We had water blasting over the cowl more than once and were in water up to the floor-panel.The only draw-back is still a drop-off of power on long up-hill runs,I've gotta play with the Driven-Clutch some more.Overall,all is good so far,I will continue to experiment,test,and post results.
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Old 04-18-2011, 01:08 PM   #7
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Default Re: Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by pachanga90 View Post
As i have posted and responded to posts in the past,My cart has 22" tires w/5" lift.I removed the govenor,Shimmed the Drive-Clutch 3/16" and Shimmed the Driven the same,but also removed the spacer between the sheaves.This was with a stock belt and performance is excellent,tons of low-end,quick take-off and fast speed-gain.23mph top end.After alot of posts about the Dayco short belt,I tried it.Performance fell way off from take-off thru top-end.Tonite I switched back to the stock-belt,and added another 3/16" shim on the Drive-Clutch for a total of 3/8".WOW,very,very impressive.I'm going to try it out in the trails tomorrow,but i think this is the trick.Let me know what you guys think.I think the short belt may work with the stock clutches,but it doesn't like the modded clutching.
Pachanga If you could show us a couple of pic's that would be awsome!! I also wonder whats the diffrence of removing the governor and "zip tieing it" and where is this located on the engine. sry for the newb ?'s
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Old 04-18-2011, 06:02 PM   #8
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Default Re: Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

I'll try to get some pics,I have an old clutch in my parts-heap somewhere.Unhooking the govenor on a 2pg marathon is as simple as unscrewing the cable-clamp at the carb. and removing the cable(make sure its' the cable that goes to the govenor on the Driven-Clutch and not your throttle-cableIf you have the stock OEM clutch,It has 3 screws holding the cover on,plus the center-bolt that goes into the crank-shaft.Remove the bolt and screws,the cover will pop out on its' own or you may have to tap it to pop it.Remove the spring,add your spacers,and reassemble it.Tighten the 3 screws,and make sure you either torque the center bolt to factory torque,or hit it with an impact-gun.You will notice a big difference immediately on take-off.As I have stated in the past,This is with a stock-belt.I tried the short belt with the clutch shimmed and it actually hurt performance alot.Hope this helps.
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Old 04-18-2011, 06:27 PM   #9
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Default Re: Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

I beleave that I have a meadalist its a 94 model I have seen the spring that they"zip tie" but do not understand the procedure. any help would be appreciated!
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:46 AM   #10
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Default Re: Marathon Clutch-Mod. Update

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Originally Posted by ThatguY View Post
I beleave that I have a meadalist its a 94 model I have seen the spring that they"zip tie" but do not understand the procedure. any help would be appreciated!
Basically its this: You zip tie the governor spring so it doesn't react to the governor thats speed activated in the rear axle. When these carts were stock with stock wheels they were governed to 15mph for golf course use. It reduces the throttle pull when that speed is reached. Bypassing it with the zip tie allows the max potential speed of it. Basically you are compressing the spring with the zip tie so the axle governor has limited to little effect. There are many threads on here with pictures showing how to do this.

**NOTE: Doing this of course voids the original design of your golf cart..
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