Need primary clutch rebuilding help

[KillerCC]

Originally Posted by imjman57

here are pic's of the clutches, the only thing difference I could fined is the clip under the buttons are on the opposite side, and the size of the drive belt pulley, when you order the weights and bottons FITS ALL 1988-UP DS AND PRECEDENT CLUTCHES. So all I did swap out the pulley and install the clips on the other side

Did your original clutch have plugs in the 3 holes used for your puller? Did the new one come with them? They are shown in the club car diagram but mine didn't have them.

[Springbok]

Originally Posted by KillerCC

What's everybody using for belts? I've seen these "severe duty" belts for $64 or stock belts for $22. Are the s/d belts worth the triple cost?

I have the severe duty belt, I bought it used from a buddy. Maybe it's just worn but I don't feel like it made much difference. I bought it because I drive across a local creek sometimes and the belt gets wet and slips, I put the severe duty belt on (which was supposed to minimize that) and it still slipped like the old belt did.

Originally Posted by KillerCC

Did your original clutch have plugs in the 3 holes used for your puller? Did the new one come with them? They are shown in the club car diagram but mine didn't have them.

My new one came with the plugs. Old one didn't have them. They just protect the threads that's all. If you don't have them just put in some screws or something.

[KillerCC]

Originally Posted by Springbok

I have the severe duty belt, I bought it used from a buddy. Maybe it's just worn but I don't feel like it made much difference. I bought it because I drive across a local creek sometimes and the belt gets wet and slips, I put the severe duty belt on (which was supposed to minimize that) and it still slipped like the old belt did.

My new one came with the plugs. Old one didn't have them. They just protect the threads that's all. If you don't have them just put in some screws or something.

I just wanted them to help reduce water/dirt getting in there. Thanks

[tpg]

If you are looking for maximum speed, use a Club Car belt. All others are 1/2 shorter. Great for low end not so much for top speed.

[KillerCC]

Originally Posted by tpg

If you are looking for maximum speed, use a Club Car belt. All others are 1/2 shorter. Great for low end not so much for top speed.

I want the torque. My friends and I do a lot of seroius off-roading with a ton of hills and deep mud.

[ProjectClubCar]

i paid 50 bucks for my doubled cogged belt, and when it wears out, i will buy a new one, for a while i was the only one running that belt, untill a few friends of mine went blasting through the bayou, there belts slipped and cried, and mine kept on going with minimal slippage, they now run the double cogged belt as well........

[KillerCC]

Turns out after I got the primary clutch rebuilt, I decided to upgrade both clutch springs in both clutches. But when I tried taking the secondary clutch apart, after I removed the snap ring, I found the whole clutch was seized to the center sleeve. I'm thinking this is why the front clutch wouldn't open up all the way. Definitely why the cart would get any speed. New clutch, here we come.20131030_120428.jpg
If you look hard enough you'll see I painted the outer half of the primary clutch. I'll post a better pic tomorrow.

[KillerCC]

Anyone had any experience with these new steel sheaved driven clutches? I just got mine today and didn't know it was gonna be like this. Before I install it I was hoping to get some feedback.

[Springbok]

I always thought the steel-sheaved driven clutches were the kind they used on the 1984-1986 carts. But it seems like lots of guys are buying driven clutches and getting sent the steel clutches (?).

Everything I have seen and read tells me that those steel clutches won't accept power spring upgrades either. I prefer the aluminum finned clutches.

[KillerCC]

Originally Posted by Springbok

I always thought the steel-sheaved driven clutches were the kind they used on the 1984-1986 carts. But it seems like lots of guys are buying driven clutches and getting sent the steel clutches (?).

Everything I have seen and read tells me that those steel clutches won't accept power spring upgrades either. I prefer the aluminum finned clutches.

Appears you were right about not being able to upgrade the torque spring on these types of clutches, so I just fixed my old one. I was able to get mine apart, the cam and sliding sheave were stuck on the center shaft due to rust. I was able to clean it up with some emery cloth.
Answer me this, why does the oem spring have the "tangs" on the ends and the replacement doesnt?