HELP !! Installed digital meter - PDS won't run

[scottyb]

I have no idea how this could be.

The solenoid operates but the keyswitch has no power?

So somehow the peddle box micro switch which is fed by the green wire at the key switch is getting 36v positive out of mid air?

I suspect we are missing a vital piece of information

[paulss]

Originally Posted by scottyb

It does this with or without the key switch wires connected?

Correct. It makes no difference.

[paulss]

Here's exactly what I did.

1) I took the plate off that I got from Scottyb that holds the ignition switch, F/R switch and his voltage meter.

2) I have 2 dark blue wires w/white stripes, 1 white wire and 1 yellow/white wire. As I look at the back of the switch, one of the blue/white wires is on one side (left as I hold it) and the 3 others are stacked on the right side w/blue/white on the top, white in the middle and yellow/white at the bottom.

3) Yesterday I used a small screwdriver to jump from the blue/white wire on the left to each of the other terminals. It suddenly started working after the 3rd or 4th jump (I noticed some sparks). I'm not sure which combination started it as I was thrilled that I had "fixed" it. I figured out quickly that it was doing what I've described.

4) After getting Rick's reply this morning I went out and hooked up the main Positive and the other wires that go on that battery's terminal. Nothing happened when I tried the key, moved the F/R switch or touched the accelerator. I then got a wire, unhooked the spade terminals on the white and yellow/white wires and jumped them (the wires). It immediately started doing the same thing as yesterday and then I removed all 4 of the wires from the back of the ignition switch. It continued to engage/disengage the solenoid and goes forward while the F/R switch is in forward or neutral and reverse in reverse. I removed the positive cable again and again noticed some small sparks as I took it off the terminal.

I'm sure I did something wrong but hope we can figure it out. Did I mention this cart is my wife's pride and joy and she's not a happy camper?

Thanks again for all your expertise.

Paul

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I have no idea how this could be.

The solenoid operates but the keyswitch has no power?

So somehow the peddle box micro switch which is fed by the green wire at the key switch is getting 36v positive out of mid air?

I suspect we are missing a vital piece of information

If it is a PDS as stated in the thread title, all the switches, except the reed switch, is powered independently by the controller.
(In Series carts and DCS carts, the keyswitch and pedal switch are in series, but not so in the PDS)

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The controller controls everything in a PDS cart and it sounds like the controller thinks the keyswitch is "ON" and is energizing the solenoid when the pedal is pushed.
So the question is why does the controller think the key is on?
Two possibilities:
1. A short exists between J1 Pins 8 & 9.
2. Controller is defective.

If the gentleman from Texas did not flip the Run/Tow switch to the Tow position when installing the meter and has not subsequently been flipping it to the Tow position while disconnecting and reconnecting wires and/or shorting between terminals on the backside of the keyswitch assembly, I strongly suspect #2.

To check for shorted keyswitch wiring, place Run/Tow in Tow.
Remove all wires from keyswitch and separate them so they cannot possible touch each other.
Connect your handheld DVM's negative test lead to the main negative terminal on battery pack.
Place Run/Tow switch in Run.
Place F/R in F
Measure the voltage at J1 Pin-9. (Stick the Positive test probe into the backside of the Molex plug while it is plugged into controller)
You should read full battery pack voltage.
The move the test probe to Pin-8.
If you read any voltage, the wires to the keyswitch may be shorted. (Unplug from J-1 and measure between Pins 8 & 9 with an Ohmmeter. Should read an open)

BTW: Looking at the controller, the pins on J1 start at the bottom right. (Pin-9 is on the top row, second from the left, Pin-8 is the third in from left.)

If you do not read a voltage, the controller is bad.
If you read a voltage and the wiring Ohms out good, the controller is bad.

------------
I also noted you said the new US Battery batteries were 38.1V. That is low.
They should be at least 38.39V about 12 hours after charger shuts off, so your charger may not be suitable for charging US Battery brand batteries.

What Make/Model charger are you using?

[scottyb]

Thanks JOhnnie - I was just realizing my mistake when he posted the wire colors on the key switch identifying the cart as PDS, somehow I was stuck in a series frame of mind?

[paulss]

Thanks JohnnieB and Scottyb.

I'll say a couple of prayers that it's the switch and not the controller. I'll let you you know what I find but it will have to be later. It just hit 103 on my back porch and my shop is usually hotter.

I'm using the EZGO digital charger but I also have a Stanley 6-48V available. I'm not sure the battery pack has been charged enough to reach max.

Paul

[paulss]

UPDATE -

I finally was able to go through the steps JohnnieB sent me and came up with the following:

J1 Pin 9 - full battery pack voltage

J1 Pin 8 - full battery pack voltage

Ohmmeter - I'm not very familiar with this but followed the directions that came with it and when I turned it on it had a "1" on the screen - when I touched the leads together, the screen read "0" - inserted the leads to the pins 8 and 9 on the plug - the reading didn't change (remained at "1")

Also, before I did these tests, I borrowed a good ignition switch from a friend and installed it and had no luck at all - He put it back on his cart and it worked as it should.

It doesn't appears all the prayers healed anything but please give me your input and any other suggestions. If I need a new controller, is there anything out there that is any better than the stock Curtis (not so much from a performance standpoint - although a little more torque would be nice, top speed is already fine )? I'm really more concerned about reliability and not being as "fragile" as the stock PDS controllers are.

Guys, I really appreciate all your help and expertise, please let me know what you think, if there are any other tests I need to do and if you have any recommendations.

Paul

[scottyb]

Just to help clarify - It is a PDS TXT THe switch has 3 positions
Off
Run (36v)
Run with lights (36v and 12v

Alltrax makes an aftermarket control for this cart which is more durable and produces more torque and speed from the stock motor.
I am currently running this control in my 08PDS on 42v with very good results. See pkg 808 on the CU website.

[paulss]

Scotty -

It is 3 way switch as you described. Does it sound like I did the ohm test correctly and, if so, is a new controller in order?

I'm a little leary of programmable controllers. Is there an aftermarket that would be better that is not programmable or would you be able to program it if I tell you what I'm looking for?


Thanks again,

Paul

[paulss]

Update: I ordered Scottyb's 808 package and just finished installing it. It looks like it is working fine and my wife is a happy camper !!!

Many thanks to Scottyb and JohnnieB for getting me through all this. I was pretty paranoid about this new controller package after frying the previous one and Scotty walked me through the whole thing and answered all my questions.

Just another reason this is one of my favorite sights.

Paul