txt no solenoid click and battery meter on dash quit working

[jwhranger]

Hello, I think I need to replace some parts. Overheated an overloaded cart. Batteries showing 38.8 volts. I get that reading on the battery side of the solenoid and about .8 volts less on the other side of the solenoid main contacts. Jumping the solenoid causes a click but no go and no battery meter. Battery meter I believe is stock and was working fine before the no click issue

I did the test below but the solenoid may be bad too I don't know.

ITS - INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR

With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.
Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.
AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector - 11.2 volts
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but than 15 volts. If the voltage is not correct, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty. -7.9 volts
Separate the 6 pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment.
If the voltage goes to 14 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 volts, the controller is faulty. -12.3 volts
RECONNECT the 6 pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector.
Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle.
As you depress the peddle the reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts. - .8 volts max
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.
REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE
CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor. - no voltage at all pedal depressed or not
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.
Re-connect the orange wire..

I'm prepared to upgrade with one of scottyb packages but I want to male sure the Throttle and anything else is ok first.

Thanks for all the help! And I know from reading this forum that if it breaks to upgrade it so that is what I will do once I know where to start.

[JohnnieB]

Is it a series drive or a sepex drive?

If it is a series drive, you have to have voltage at the keyswitch for the factory installed battery meter to work and the solenoid to click.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Is it a series drive or a sepex drive?

If it is a series drive, you have to have voltage at the keyswitch for the factory installed battery meter to work and the solenoid to click.

If no voltage at the key switch - this could be as simple as a bad reed switch(receptacle) or micro switch (F&R)

[jwhranger]

Series drive. No voltage at the key switch except for the 12 volts going to the lights when you turn the key all the way too the right. How do I check the reed switch? All Microswitches are clicking

[jwhranger]

Reed switch is the spade terminal on the micro-switch from the charging receptacle? That had come loose last year but is in place now.

[jwhranger]

Back up buzzer was working now no longer working.

[JohnnieB]

The reverse beeper and the solenoid coil are fed from the same voltage source, so check the voltage on the smaller of the three wires coming out of the backside of the charge receptacle. It should be full pack voltage.

[jwhranger]

Thanks Johnnie I'll check it when I'm back by the cart tomorrow and let you know what I find.

[jwhranger]

JohnnieB. I put a jumper from the spade on the microswitch where the small write grin the charging receptacle ends up to the positive battery pack voltage and the cart works again. I'll drive it around a bit but I think that fixed it. Thanks all for the help and I'll follow up if something else comes up. Thanks again.

[jwhranger]

JohnnieB. I put a jumper from the spade on the microswitch where the small write grin the charging receptacle ends up to the positive battery pack voltage and the cart works again. I'll drive it around a bit but I think that fixed it. Thanks all for the help and I'll follow up if something else comes up. Thanks again Scotty and Johnnie.