questions before I get in too deep.

[JohnnyG67]

So while I said I wasn't going to frankenstein the motor mounts, I was showing my buddy the progress on the cart and we both agreed that those bushings had a real familiar look about them. Low and behold doesn't he show up yesterday with a set of Yamaha Phazer (sled) motor mounts just to try out. Figured what the heck nothing to lose by trying. I'll be damned if they weren't the identical circumference/thickness! Plugged them in and BINGO! hahaha I love it when unexpected stuff like that falls together! And our wives wonder why we hang on to oddball stuff. Onward to wiring....

[sjfishon]

you bet;;; i have forgotten most of the stuff i have saved, if i look long enough i have it, i have boxes full, never through away. about the motor mounts, the rubber spacers that are on car shocks will work also. steve

[JohnnyG67]

Well more questions guys. I replaced a lot of the junky looking wiring and one 4ga. ground wire (chassis to center of the F/N/R switch) now I know I have yet to adjust the accelerator as you have to pull it back like 1/8" to shut the cart off. But since the wiring I have noticed that it will start in forward with the pedal as it should but now it doesn't want to start in rev. unless it's already running forward and it's quickly switched to reverse (which I don't want) Is this likely due to the wiring or the microswitch adj on the acc. pedal?

[JohnnyG67]

Got the acc. pedal and micro switch adjusted (man was that a pain... Clevis on the acc. pedal was all froze up around the rod) and all is good. Still a little lazy starting from reverse but it's getting better as I'm working the F/N/R switch back and forth (probably just dirty contacts). Now I'm getting into the body moulding. Well I should say taking it off... How the heck do you get the new stuff on? I tried pulling off old and reattaching to see how it would be to reattach and it doesn't want to go back on. Is it like a start at one end lube the hell out of it and slide it on type of thing?, or is there a tool to make it easier? I'm not going to order new trim if it's gonna be that hard to get on.
John

[sjfishon]

jonny,,,, if you go about a foot, from the pedal there should be a plug in connector. on mine that was bad, its in the frame with a little push strap. i just cut it out and used wire nuts to reconnect. then seal the wire nuts. steve

[JohnnyG67]

Thanks Steve I'll check that out today.

[JohnnyG67]

To go with a previous question, is there a tool for the body moulding to help get it on better? And if anyone has some moulding they're looking to sell let me know. Haven't been able to fid it for less than $100 bucks. Starting to get the "side eye" from the ol lady lol.

[JohnnyG67]

I should probably change the name of the thread as I'm all in it now lol. Figured I may as well post some pics of the ugly dog. I've gotten it to where it's all mechanically sound so now it's just a matter of bodywork and paint. Had an old alum diamond plate truck box laying around so I made a new shock cover to replace the cracked plastic original. Got a sweet pair of LED lights on Amazon for a whopping $14 for both shipped. No lift for now. Just trying to keep it budget friendly. Should clean up nicely tho. I'll post the progress. Thinking when this motor pukes I'll go a frame-off and a big block but this should serve it's purpose for now.http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...1&d=1457276149

[rvkersh]

I use a hair dryer to soften the rubber and a siding hook to pull it on. Service manual says soak in hot water then roll it on. Tried it, not so good.

[JohnnyG67]

Yeah I'm thinking I need something to soften it like A LOT. Of course the age of the original stuff and the seasons it's seen have hardened it a lot. I will see if I can save anything from the original as I'm making diamond plate rockers so I should gain a few feet. Just wish new stuff wasn't the better part of a franklin...