G2 driven clutch help

[Shieldzee]

I bought a new driven clutch from VC and the instructions don't mention the different holes in the puck numbered 1 thru 4 for the spring. Can anyone tell me where the spring should sit? I'm assuming that they might have something to do with the shift points??? I'm installing the 625 if that matters as far as setting goes.

[smallblock450sl]

Stock would be "B-4". Not shure of the torque of the 625, but some members with V-Twin's like "B-2 or even B-1". Remember you must "preload" when installing. Get the spring tabs into the correct holes, then when pushing in the sliding sheave, twist the sheave about a 1/4 turn to get the sliding sheave points past the ramp shoes. Hope that helps.

[sformal]

Sent you a PM...

[Shieldzee]

Thank you guys, both a big help. I now know the how, but this brings up another question now, what is the difference in performance or shifting between "B4" and "B1"? does it shift quicker if set at "B1", does it have more torque at "B4"?

[sho305]

Higher letter/number on a stock yamaha is higher tension. It would go A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, B3, C1......

The higher number just makes it have to rotate more (more tension) to get on the next set of ramps and go together.

B4 is a medium setting that lets it backshift some but keeps rpm lower at cruise. Higher setting will make the engine rev more at part throttle and have more response. Lower setting will let rpm go lower at part throttle. However with a larger torque engine like a twin it has more torque at low rpm, that why they sometimes like a lower setting of B1 B2 to use that low rpm power. If you put an ATV engine in that liked to rev more, then you might want C2 or something to keep rpm higher. That engine would bog at low rpm. I have my clone at C2 or something right now it does not like to go under 2500 when riding around because of high compression, it will knock if it goes too low. I also have a 94c so don't compare that to stock clutches.

[spriddle]

Originally Posted by sho305

Higher letter/number on a stock yamaha is higher tension. It would go A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, B3, C1......

The higher number just makes it have to rotate more (more tension) to get on the next set of ramps and go together.

B4 is a medium setting that lets it backshift some but keeps rpm lower at cruise. Higher setting will make the engine rev more at part throttle and have more response. Lower setting will let rpm go lower at part throttle. However with a larger torque engine like a twin it has more torque at low rpm, that why they sometimes like a lower setting of B1 B2 to use that low rpm power. If you put an ATV engine in that liked to rev more, then you might want C2 or something to keep rpm higher. That engine would bog at low rpm. I have my clone at C2 or something right now it does not like to go under 2500 when riding around because of high compression, it will knock if it goes too low. I also have a 94c so don't compare that to stock clutches.

Great post sho!

[sho305]

Thanks, this 94c has had me learn all those settings lol!! Every time I change the 94c setup I end up changing the preload on the secondary. Its working good now but still not right it bogs in the snow. I really think I need to change the helix but I don't need another project right now. I'd have to machine it after creating it in cad, nobody seems to have one made. And yes the helix is on the sheave, not wanting to mess one of those up I have a new cut sheave on there from CPP and its a really nice HD piece. I'd have to buy a cheap one to test on.

Here is even more clutch stuff lol...

In a nutshell if you drive your cart at a steady 1/4 throttle, where you set the secondary preload will determine RPM at that time. More = higher rpm and therefore snappier response/more fuel use/more noise/and a little more cooling since its cooled by engine fan. More = bad for casual and road use, good for trail use. Since there are so many settings you can dial it right in for your use (or maybe what engine you swapped into the cart). Only bad part is the pain of taking it apart and assembling it again.

I have also found the G22 spring seems to be a hair weaker than the G9 spring, it shifts out a little more and lower rpm at the same setting. I can't verify this though because the G22 spring I have is not a yamaha part I can only guess it is to yamaha spec. The umax spring is stronger for sure, it will raise rpm at low and medium speeds, if you preload it much even more so. It is heavier wire and much stronger, and harder to install. It is for utility carts that haul weight, it works great for lifted carts with large tires or to tow with.

Another mod is the cut sheave, this only gives you a lower gear to take off with and does not affect speeds above that. It will gain rpm quicker on a holeshot, it gives more power towing and hill climbing at low speeds. I have one on a stock 420 and it gets full rpm in about 2 seconds and only a few foot of movement when you take off. It was a distinct difference from the stock sheave. It pushes the belt up higher. It can make the primary want to drag more at idle.

As always make sure the ramps on your sheave are smooth, the plastic shoes are good, and the sheave does not wobble on the shaft (center bushing) and put a little grease on the shaft/bushing when you install. The bushing does not fit tight, but the sheave should have little play in it and wobble very little on shaft. Also note the belt wear on alum sheaves, eventually they wear through and negatively affect shifting before that point.

[BrutalSoldier]

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[BrutalSoldier]

Originally Posted by sformal

Sent you a PM...

I am putting together the same clutch can I get a PM

[spriddle]

Need to get sho to do some write ups and we'll sticky them up top.