Power surge

[hot-shot]

I have a 2008 Club car Precedent. This cart has had issues from the day I bought it. I installed new batteries to make sure power source is good. I also changed the throttle sensor. The reason for that change is the cart surged at different times while pressing the throttle. This cart has a older Dcx controller. It appears to be programmable? I also see that the motor has a wired connection coming from the end of the motor? Any ideas as to why the cart surges? Thanks

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by hot-shot

I have a 2008 Club car Precedent. This cart has had issues from the day I bought it. I installed new batteries to make sure power source is good. I also changed the throttle sensor (Do you mean the MCOR? If so, where did you purchase it?). The reason for that change is the cart surged at different times while pressing the throttle. This cart has a older Dcx controller. It appears to be programmable? (It is, but you need the Controller Pro Software https://alltraxinc.com/controller-pro-software/ to do it) I also see that the motor has a wired connection coming from the end of the motor? (That is the speed sensor and can contribute to this if it is intermittently working) Any ideas as to why the cart surges? Thanks

I listed some points above. Doubt it is the DCX, more so the MCOR or if not, then the speed sensor.

[hot-shot]

Should I just buy a new speed sensor. I bought the MCOR at a local golf shop. Not a factory part.

[jakesnake27]

Originally Posted by hot-shot

Not a factory part.

This could very well be your problem. Only go OEM when it comes to MCORs. You can get an OEM one here from a site sponsor: https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/mcors

[WalterM6]

This comes from real life experience with the DCX. Replace the DCX with the XCT and your problems will be gone. There wasn't any way to accurately cal the throttle with the DCX.

[hot-shot]

Okay. Here is the update. Bought a new speed sensor from a local cart shop. The old one did have a crack in it. Drove the cart and didn’t see much difference. Seems to get intermittent power? As I had said in a earlier post I replaced the MCOR not with factory part. Not sure if that is the issue. Also the run tow switch does nothing when I change positions? Does some one think it is the Older Dcx controller? Should I log on to their site and see if this could be a programming is switch the controller? Thanks

[jakesnake27]

Walter brings up a great point, the DCXs had so many throttle problems. I'd be willing to bet if you threw an XCT in there all of your problems would go away. Your run/tow switch may be bad, however. You can ohm it out to verify that.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Lets prove the problem before buying parts. We can do an MCOR Output Test and see if it is good. If it is and the speed switch signal is stable, it will only leave the Controller.
With the batteries connected, key switch Off, Tow/Run switch in Run; place the black (–) probe on packs main Negative post and the red (+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR. (The reading should be approximately ~0.32vdc to ~0.5vdc with the pedal up). Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should increase until it reaches ~4.65vdc or more when the pedal is fully pressed. (Anything less than 4.60vdc and you are not reaching full throttle). If the reading is erratic or jumps all over the place it is a bad MCOR potentiometer..... Get an OEM one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/mcors and not from Amazon or Ebay

[hot-shot]

What setting to use on the multimeter. Thanks

[jakesnake27]

Originally Posted by hot-shot

What setting to use on the multimeter. Thanks

You want your meter on the 20VDC setting