2014 Precedent- no power- no buzzer- no solenoid click....nuthin

[jmrf350]

So New to the electric Cart world. Had gas ones before and built a couple of customs. This electric thing has got me stumped

Bought a wrecked (ran into a parked car full speed ) 2014 precedent 48v. Smashed up the front end pretty good. Had to replace everything back to the dash support except for the actual dash. The Cart ran before i took the front end apart. the only connectors i disconnected were the dash harness and the aftermarket madjax light kit. put it all back together and plugged everything back in and cart was dead. Been messing with it for 3 days and cant figure it out. Here's what i have so far

No Buzzer, no forward, no reverse
51 volts across the pack.
51 v at the solenoid
only getting 17v to the key
checked 2 blade fuses that were good
replaced one in line 2A Buss fuse that was not good
Replaced solenoid
bypassed OBC

Any help would be appreciated

[Fairtax4me]

Did you put t in tow mode and disconnect the battery pack before taking wires apart?

How did you bypass the OBC? If not done properly that will keep the controller in lockout and it will not function.

[jmrf350]

did not have it in tow mode when i disconnected the harness......realized that was a thing after that.

bypassed the OBC by jumping pin 2 and 6 (red to blue)

[TahoeDawgZ71]

What's the vehicle serial number? I'll help you fix this, but I need to know what I'm working with. Grab a multimeter and a cell phone tomorrow and call me. 706-431-3917. We'll figure this out. Precedents are easy.

[jmrf350]

PH1401-430166

Thanks for the help- ill give you a call tomorrow

[TahoeDawgZ71]

In order for the controller to make the car run, it has to receive certain signals from the rest of the car. It has to have power to the following pins, which you can check with a multimeter... Put the negative lead on the main negative battery terminal and check the following locations with the positive lead of the meter.

1. Tan (Pin 10) - 48V+ with Key switch ON
2. Grey (Pin 9) - 48V+ with TOW/RUN Switch in RUN

3. Brown (Pin - 48V+ with F&R switch in FORWARD
OR
Blue (Pin 16) - 48V+ with F&R switch in REVERSE

4. Green (Pin 6) - 48V+ with Key ON, F&R Switch in either position, and accelerator pedal depressed)

If you're getting power at all four of these places, the controller is bad. If you're missing power at any of these places, post info here and we'll point you in the right direction.

[jmrf350]

heres the findings couldn't get anything at pin 10 and only 4.8 v at pin 6

1. Tan (Pin 10) - 48V+ with Key switch ON
0.00

2. Grey (Pin 9) - 48V+ with TOW/RUN Switch in RUN
48

3. Brown (Pin - 48V+ with F&R switch in FORWARD
OR
Blue (Pin 16) - 48V+ with F&R switch in REVERSE
48 AT BOTH

4. Green (Pin 6) - 48V+ with Key ON, F&R Switch in either position, and accelerator pedal depressed)
4.8V CONSTANT- PEDAL PRESSED, NOT PRESSED, F&R

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Check the 15 amp blade fuse near the solenoid. It's in a black DelPhi fuse holder. It has a Red wire and a Pink wire running to it. I know you said you checked them, but check it again. This circuit feeds to key switch. If all of that checks out good, you may have a bad sonic weld in the wire harness. If the fuse looks good and has power, check for power at the orange wire at the F&R switch.

[jmrf350]

Fuse is good

[jmrf350]

Fuse is good. Orange wire has 50 v. I’ll try to find the sonic weld. Behind the dash?