1992 Club Car 36 volt w/coils.. UPGRADE OPTIONS?

rgecy · 09-21-2010, 09:49 PM

I just purchased a 1992 CC DS 36 V (with coils/Vglide) and wanted hear some opinions on upgrading it. I felt like I got a pretty good deal at $250 and only needed to replace 1 battery and the fuse on the charging outlet. The previous owner had hood up one battery wrong that went to the charger and blew the fuse.

Ultimately I am wanting to also put a lift kit on and larger tires along with a few other mods down the road. This already has been a great project for my 10 year old son and me, and he has enjoyed helping with the upgrades and items we have fixed so far. New #4 cables on batteries, new light switch, battery meter, painted the glovebox and other plastic parts, fixed the bumper, etc.

I have read some post on possibly upgrading the cart to 48v and still be able use the 36v motor and wanted to hear some opinions on this, pros, cons, and what parts work and what parts dont, etc.

Will I get better performance? Increased Speed?

What parts do you recommend and why?

Would love to see some more picts of others who have done this.

Thanks in advance!

Robert

OLD MEC · 09-22-2010, 01:19 PM

THANKS SO Glad you let us know what speed control you have ( V Glide ) and resistors etc as so often we have to dig to get needed info. You have several options for up grades depending on what you will be using cart for and how much modifications you intend to add such as lift, large tires, rear seat, lighting, top, windshield, etc. All make a difference in how much power you need or want? Yes depending on what you can afford or want you WILL increase performance and speed so plan ahead?
#1 Option with EXISTING STOCK CART 36 volts battery pack, using existing motor, V Glide unit, F&R control, and solenoid would need following parts== Electronic resistors for conversion to back of V Glide unit ( kit available from dealer and after market ) or if versed in electronics ( Radio Shack ), new made on sight ( 18-20 guage ) light guage wiring to replace existing 6 gauge wires from V Glide to ( new solid state controller with 5-0 ohm input, 36 to 48 volts that is rated for "300 minimum amps output" non programable "CHEAPER "), replacement of ALL 6 guage heavy wiring to 4 guage, adding a pre charge resistor across large posts on solenoid, adding diode across small terminals of solenoid, possible addition needed micro switch on back of F&R control, if not included 250 amp fuse inline with battery pack to solid state controller, HUMMM think that covers major needs for this option???
#2 Option is VERY BEST IN MY OPINION GIVING THE MOST PERFORMANCE AND POWER by still using existing motor ( better than 48 volt motor and will run like super charged with 48 volts feeding ), but going to 48 volts battery pack ( 8 volt batterys as you have already replaced one 6 volt battery and others may be on way out anyway? ), If your batterys were like new you COULD add 2 more 6 volt batterys in golf bag well to make 48 volt pack that would give a little more range to pack but is it worth the extra weight??, NOTE NEED FOR DIFFERENT 48 VOLT CHARGER WITH AUTO TYPE CONTROL AND GET "WITHOUT TIMER CONTROL" ( this excludes need of OBC and needed extra control wiring, and adaptaion of charger receptical on cart to charger plug as needed, 4 guage wiring to replace ALL 6 guage, 48 volt solenoid, diode on solenoid as above, resistor on solenoid as above, Curtis PB-6 pedal control or like type ( V glide removed and some adaptation needed to V Glide linkage to fit ) ( this solves problem with not very smooth ( JUMMPY ) starts and run of V Glide conversion ), light gauge wiring from PB-6 to as shown above specs of solid state controller ( "EXCEPT ONE THING THE SOLID STATE CONTROLLER NEEDS TO BE A 0-5 OHMS input for PB-6 control" ), possible addition of micro on back of F&R control, if needed 400 amp fuse before controller input ( may come with controller ) this if I havent missed anything major covers normal conversion? This will have 3 major cost items to look at before doing, batterys ( $600-$800 ), charger ( $250-$400 ), Solid State Controller ( $250-$400 ) these are approximates as by shopping around you may be able to cut cost considerable? WARNING dont cut costs by going with used or cheap priced poor quality products just to save a few dollars now and cost you twice next time when they go bad way too soon later on?
If at this or later time you really get carried away and want huge diameter tires 22" - to 25", 8-10" lifts and add all kinds of extra weight and even more wind drag then you would need a 500 amp minimum controller, 500 amp fuse, beefing up of the F&R control with heavy brass bar stock, HD 400 amp rated solenoid, higher rated fuses, 2 guage wiring, etc? If I haven't forgotten anything this should cover needs?
Many cart owners make the mistake of going too light duty on conversion and then add all kinds of weight and wind drag by lifting, tires etc and then wonder why upgrades are not doing the job and expensive parts are burning up? Its better to plan ahead and get up grades to start with than later on have to buy new parts twice rather than getting the first time and be safe?
Hope this gives you some idea of whats needed and to give you more insight I would check posts like SCOTTYB, etc and go ( SEARCH ) a top of page to see resistor conversions in forum for more info on what others have done.

rgecy · 09-22-2010, 05:20 PM

Wow, thanks for the reply. I have been closely reading up and emailed ScottyB.

I would like to keep it at 36v for a while to let the sticker shock wear off the wife and get me out of the dog house. Maybe upgrade the batteries in the spring/summer 2011.

I plan on installing a lift kit and 20-22" tires asap, but do not plan on using it on very harsh terrain. Mainly flat lands hear in the south just getting back and forth for hunting and hopefully bringing in a Buck or two!

What do you guys recommend on the lift kit? I have been reading on Spindle kits and AARMs. Spindle seems to be cheaper, but what are the pros and cons of each?

Thanks,

Robert

OLD MEC · 09-23-2010, 09:49 AM

One of our sponsors "JAKES" makes quality AMERICAN MADE lifts that they stand behind 100%. They have all styles of lifts depending on what you want for heighth and performace? For 3-6" I like Jakes spindle lift best its HD and lasts also are easily adaptable to front brakes, anything higher and if used on rough terrain I like the long travel lifts that Jakes makes.
Look out if you are only looking for price as there is some real junk out there that you cant get correct alignment and will fall apart right away?
The after market is filled with low grade, poor quality in manufacter and design etc, mostly made like everything now in China that will fall apart at first semi hard use. If you want good products and you pick a brand that you like go with there highest price and hope the quality goes along with price?

09-22-2010, 05:20 PM	#3
rgecy Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Beaufort, SC Posts: 39	Re: 1992 Club Car 36 volt w/coils.. UPGRADE OPTIONS? Wow, thanks for the reply. I have been closely reading up and emailed ScottyB. I would like to keep it at 36v for a while to let the sticker shock wear off the wife and get me out of the dog house. Maybe upgrade the batteries in the spring/summer 2011. I plan on installing a lift kit and 20-22" tires asap, but do not plan on using it on very harsh terrain. Mainly flat lands hear in the south just getting back and forth for hunting and hopefully bringing in a Buck or two! What do you guys recommend on the lift kit? I have been reading on Spindle kits and AARMs. Spindle seems to be cheaper, but what are the pros and cons of each? Thanks, Robert

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09-21-2010, 09:49 PM	#1
rgecy Not Yet Wild Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Beaufort, SC Posts: 39	1992 Club Car 36 volt w/coils.. UPGRADE OPTIONS? I just purchased a 1992 CC DS 36 V (with coils/Vglide) and wanted hear some opinions on upgrading it. I felt like I got a pretty good deal at $250 and only needed to replace 1 battery and the fuse on the charging outlet. The previous owner had hood up one battery wrong that went to the charger and blew the fuse. Ultimately I am wanting to also put a lift kit on and larger tires along with a few other mods down the road. This already has been a great project for my 10 year old son and me, and he has enjoyed helping with the upgrades and items we have fixed so far. New #4 cables on batteries, new light switch, battery meter, painted the glovebox and other plastic parts, fixed the bumper, etc. I have read some post on possibly upgrading the cart to 48v and still be able use the 36v motor and wanted to hear some opinions on this, pros, cons, and what parts work and what parts dont, etc. Will I get better performance? Increased Speed? What parts do you recommend and why? Would love to see some more picts of others who have done this. Thanks in advance! Robert

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09-22-2010, 01:19 PM	#2
OLD MEC Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,391	Re: 1992 Club Car 36 volt w/coils.. UPGRADE OPTIONS? THANKS SO Glad you let us know what speed control you have ( V Glide ) and resistors etc as so often we have to dig to get needed info. You have several options for up grades depending on what you will be using cart for and how much modifications you intend to add such as lift, large tires, rear seat, lighting, top, windshield, etc. All make a difference in how much power you need or want? Yes depending on what you can afford or want you WILL increase performance and speed so plan ahead? #1 Option with EXISTING STOCK CART 36 volts battery pack, using existing motor, V Glide unit, F&R control, and solenoid would need following parts== Electronic resistors for conversion to back of V Glide unit ( kit available from dealer and after market ) or if versed in electronics ( Radio Shack ), new made on sight ( 18-20 guage ) light guage wiring to replace existing 6 gauge wires from V Glide to ( new solid state controller with 5-0 ohm input, 36 to 48 volts that is rated for "300 minimum amps output" non programable "CHEAPER "), replacement of ALL 6 guage heavy wiring to 4 guage, adding a pre charge resistor across large posts on solenoid, adding diode across small terminals of solenoid, possible addition needed micro switch on back of F&R control, if not included 250 amp fuse inline with battery pack to solid state controller, HUMMM think that covers major needs for this option??? #2 Option is VERY BEST IN MY OPINION GIVING THE MOST PERFORMANCE AND POWER by still using existing motor ( better than 48 volt motor and will run like super charged with 48 volts feeding ), but going to 48 volts battery pack ( 8 volt batterys as you have already replaced one 6 volt battery and others may be on way out anyway? ), If your batterys were like new you COULD add 2 more 6 volt batterys in golf bag well to make 48 volt pack that would give a little more range to pack but is it worth the extra weight??, NOTE NEED FOR DIFFERENT 48 VOLT CHARGER WITH AUTO TYPE CONTROL AND GET "WITHOUT TIMER CONTROL" ( this excludes need of OBC and needed extra control wiring, and adaptaion of charger receptical on cart to charger plug as needed, 4 guage wiring to replace ALL 6 guage, 48 volt solenoid, diode on solenoid as above, resistor on solenoid as above, Curtis PB-6 pedal control or like type ( V glide removed and some adaptation needed to V Glide linkage to fit ) ( this solves problem with not very smooth ( JUMMPY ) starts and run of V Glide conversion ), light gauge wiring from PB-6 to as shown above specs of solid state controller ( "EXCEPT ONE THING THE SOLID STATE CONTROLLER NEEDS TO BE A 0-5 OHMS input for PB-6 control" ), possible addition of micro on back of F&R control, if needed 400 amp fuse before controller input ( may come with controller ) this if I havent missed anything major covers normal conversion? This will have 3 major cost items to look at before doing, batterys ( $600-$800 ), charger ( $250-$400 ), Solid State Controller ( $250-$400 ) these are approximates as by shopping around you may be able to cut cost considerable? WARNING dont cut costs by going with used or cheap priced poor quality products just to save a few dollars now and cost you twice next time when they go bad way too soon later on? If at this or later time you really get carried away and want huge diameter tires 22" - to 25", 8-10" lifts and add all kinds of extra weight and even more wind drag then you would need a 500 amp minimum controller, 500 amp fuse, beefing up of the F&R control with heavy brass bar stock, HD 400 amp rated solenoid, higher rated fuses, 2 guage wiring, etc? If I haven't forgotten anything this should cover needs? Many cart owners make the mistake of going too light duty on conversion and then add all kinds of weight and wind drag by lifting, tires etc and then wonder why upgrades are not doing the job and expensive parts are burning up? Its better to plan ahead and get up grades to start with than later on have to buy new parts twice rather than getting the first time and be safe? Hope this gives you some idea of whats needed and to give you more insight I would check posts like SCOTTYB, etc and go ( SEARCH ) a top of page to see resistor conversions in forum for more info on what others have done.

09-23-2010, 09:49 AM	#4
OLD MEC Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,391	Re: 1992 Club Car 36 volt w/coils.. UPGRADE OPTIONS? One of our sponsors "JAKES" makes quality AMERICAN MADE lifts that they stand behind 100%. They have all styles of lifts depending on what you want for heighth and performace? For 3-6" I like Jakes spindle lift best its HD and lasts also are easily adaptable to front brakes, anything higher and if used on rough terrain I like the long travel lifts that Jakes makes. Look out if you are only looking for price as there is some real junk out there that you cant get correct alignment and will fall apart right away? The after market is filled with low grade, poor quality in manufacter and design etc, mostly made like everything now in China that will fall apart at first semi hard use. If you want good products and you pick a brand that you like go with there highest price and hope the quality goes along with price?