Rebuilding a Marathon using a curtis controller 1205x-4414 and I have a few questions

[66beetle]

I am in the process of tearing a 1984 Marathon resistor cart down and I have some parts laying around from a taylor dunn cart and forklift spare parts.
I want to use a Curtis controller 1205x-4414, main contactor and a reversing contactor from a forklift, and put in 4awg or bigger wire, and a pb-6 pot box.

According to the Curtis manual, the schematic shows a contactor switching only the field windings (S1 & S2) and NO contactor for A1 and A2.
Most golf cart schematics show reversing contactors that change A1 & A2 polarity along with S1 & S2 polarity, I have done a lot of searching
on here and can't quite get a clear answer.
curtis wiring1.jpg

curtis wiring 2.jpg
If I hook it up according to the Curtis manual will it work right?
Do I need to use a bypass contactor?

Am I going to run into any issues using the A2 terminal (plug braking) on the Curtis controller? Or just remove the wires from the A2 terminal?

This is my first golf cart and don't want to mess it up to bad!

Any help to clerify this would be great! Thanks

[JohnnieB]

Fork lifts often use plug braking, golf carts seldom do. Unless you are planning on shifting from F to R while moving, the A2 terminal doesn't have to be connected.

To reverse the direction the motor spins, change the direction of current flow in either the Armature windings or the the Stator winding, but not both.
Take a closer look at the EZGO golf cart schematics, they only switch current flow direction in one set of windings.

The attached schematic will work with or without A2 connected.

[66beetle]

I think I got confussed looking at the schematics for a forward/reverse switch (without contactors)

Thanks for the help!