Differential Input Shaft R&R question.

[JohnnieB]

I need to replace the bearings on the differential's input gear assembly and was wondering if it could be removed and replaced without removing the differential/Axle assembly from the cart.

If it can be, I can probably do it myself, if not I'll have to farm the job out because I'm not nearly as young or as agile as I used to be.
Getting down on the floor isn't much of a problem for me, it's getting up from the floor afterwards.

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While looking through my stash, I found a later version of a Dana service manual that has better pictures than the one that usually floats around here.

From what I can tell, it looks like an oil seal and a snap-ring have to be removed and then the input gear assembly can be pulled out.

[yurtle]

If I remembered, I'd tell you.

Gettin' old sometimes involves more than loss of mobility.

BTW, Thanks for the new and improved version of the Dana Axle manual.

[RobCons]

I know what you mean about the getting up JohnnieB. Look for a ATV lift on Craigslist or use a 20% off coupon at Harbor Freight. That way you could just lift up the buggy or other things and easily reach them.

[sportcoupe]

The only thing holding the input gear into the differential housing is the snap ring once the motor is out. The main problem is most input shafts don't like to come out easily and have to be "persuaded".

For the most stubborn input gears I drill a 1/4" hole in the other side of the housing and using a slim punch and hammer, tap the input gear out of the housing. I then tap threads in the hole I drilled and install a bolt to plug the new maintenance hole.

[LostHusker]

Johnnie

Never mind I was thinking of the middle part

LH

[LostHusker]

Johnnie

Here is a pic.





Gman did a diff rebuild thread but do not remember if he went this far on the rebuild.

[TerryH]

Personaly I would not even consider removing the differential just to remove the input. Just remove the motor and then the snap ring. The removeable plugs are actually on the intermediate shaft so you won't need to do anything with those. If the input shaft is stuck, which it probably is, I can usually get it to release by rapping on the back side of the housing with a deadblow hammer. You can also gently pry against the back side of the input splines on the shaft with a pry bar or large screwdriver. Once it moves, it should come right out. The bearings are pressed on the shaft so you'll have to get someone with a press to do that work for you. I like to put a thin film of silicone on the o ring to make sure that it seals. If the o ring is damaged you can get a replacement at just about any parts store. I also bought replacement bearing at my local bearing supply instead of getting them from EZGO. Saved a few bucks doing it that way.

All in all, it's a fairly simple procedure.

[Thatsme?]

If you can get the input shaft out it will work. ( Probably can )

I would remove the pan so you can hold or turn the gears to make sure teeth are aligned during installation. Just a thought all bearings have the same wear or age . It seems like the input shaft gets the least lubrication. The intermediate shaft more and the carrier bearings the most. Slinging only 10 oz. of oil to the top input shaft seems like the input shaft gets the short end of the lubrication. (The input shaft gets the shaft on lubrication)

On my 1996 axle I had to gently persuade the input shaft to remove it. The carrier and intermediate shaft had already been removed so I could work inside the housing and outside at the same time. I completely removed the rear axle.
My dana axle does not have the seal just the oring in the housing with one sealed bearing at the snap ring. The other bearing is oil bath.

[JohnnieB]

Thanks for the replies.
Sounds like the input gear assembly can be, and has been, R&R'd in the cart; So I'll give it a try this winter.

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I have reason to believe it won't be stuck in place too hard, but thanks for the tips on unsticking it.
My plan is to wrap the splines in leather, clamp vice-grips onto them and use the vice-grips as a pry point while tapping the housing with a dead-blow hammer after warming the housing with a heat gun.

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I'm currently using a 80/20 mix of SAE 40 and STP, but think I'll switch to straight 85W-140 Lucas Gear Oil, which is actually a bit thinner than what I'm now using.

With thinner oil in the gears and good bearings on the input shaft, I might have to move the Top Speed slider down on DCX500 to keep the motor RPM under 6.5k.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

With thinner oil in the gears and good bearings on the input shaft, I might have to move the Top Speed slider down on DCX500 to keep the motor RPM under 6.5k.

Party pooper.