Electrical questions

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by bospider01

When not in use, how much power "leaks" from the 48v to the 12v reducer? Is it worth or have people installed a switch between the 2?

The better voltage reducers have a +48v "trigger" wire that connects to the key switch and turns all 12v accessories OFF when the key switch is turned OFF.

That +48v "trigger" wire connection is already available on the Precedent dash harness 12-pin connector.

There is not really a reason to install a separate switch on the +48v input side of the converter, the filter capacitors inside the converter require very little current to remain charged (when there is no 12v load).

If You are storing the cart for a few months, You either need to leave the charger plugged to the cart (with the Tow/Run switch on Tow) or disconnect the batteries from the cart electrical system.

[yawood]

Originally Posted by bospider01

When not in use, how much power "leaks" from the 48v to the 12v reducer? Is it worth or have people installed a switch between the 2?

I have wired mine through a separate switch as well as the off/on switch so both switches need to be on for the reducer to be powered but I can run the cart with the reducer off if I want to. My reducer is a cheap one without a "trigger" wire so if I did not have the separate switch it would be pulling some power even with the accessories off. I have also run it through a relay so that all the accessory power is not going through the switches.

If you are not familiar with "electrics" it is easier to use the setup described by Sergio where you have a reducer with an adapter for the CC wiring harness and which has a "trigger" wire (which does not need a separate switch). The site sponsors (e.g. Revolution Golf Cars or Carts Unlimited) have such a reducer.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by yawood

I have wired mine through a separate switch as well as the off/on switch so both switches need to be on for the reducer to be powered but I can run the cart with the reducer off if I want to. My reducer is a cheap one without a "trigger" wire so if I did not have the separate switch it would be pulling some power even with the accessories off. I have also run it through a relay so that all the accessory power is not going through the switches.

If you are not familiar with "electrics" it is easier to use the setup described by Sergio where you have a reducer with an adapter for the CC wiring harness and which has a "trigger" wire (which does not need a separate switch). The site sponsors (e.g. Revolution Golf Cars or Carts Unlimited) have such a reducer.

[bospider01]

Well folks, thank you for all the advice and help. I finished the reducer install with minor complications but lots of questions. there were a few people that talked to me offline and got me through my questions. I installed the 30W reducer with 5 wires, one was a trigger that got wired to the ignition. I wired the constant to the memory wire for the radio. the previous owner used a light kit that wasn't like the MADJACK and used a 16-12V reducer after being wired to the last 2 batteries in series. that caused some minor complications and lots of head scratching till I got it all figured out. I installed 4 rocker switches and a digital battery meter. the rocker switches operate my radio (which used to be on its own 12V battery that was in the back compartment), one for the headlights, one for the underbody LEDs (that my kids love), and an extra switch for the future LED light bar. I am very pleased with how it came out with one exception... then I open the glove box where the radio is stored, it flips all the switches in the dash. the reason I have to open the glove box is because I cannot make changes to the radio (like volume and change the radio) with the remote because the IR is obviously behind the door of the glove box. I will have to look into an IR extender so I can use the remote without opening the door. of course, that is another powered source to wire in, but ill probably tie into the radio power wire. Lastly, I installed a high speed magnet and I am really glad I did. it allows me to coast instead of motor braking and I gained 2-3 mph on a straight-away.

I can upload pictures later. I have a few more interior lights left to install and I am looking for a good led light bar.

thanks again all!

[yawood]

Well done and glad we could help.

[Yegcaper]

Originally Posted by bospider01

Well folks, thank you for all the advice and help. I finished the reducer install with minor complications but lots of questions. there were a few people that talked to me offline and got me through my questions. I installed the 30W reducer with 5 wires, one was a trigger that got wired to the ignition. I wired the constant to the memory wire for the radio. the previous owner used a light kit that wasn't like the MADJACK and used a 16-12V reducer after being wired to the last 2 batteries in series. that caused some minor complications and lots of head scratching till I got it all figured out. I installed 4 rocker switches and a digital battery meter. the rocker switches operate my radio (which used to be on its own 12V battery that was in the back compartment), one for the headlights, one for the underbody LEDs (that my kids love), and an extra switch for the future LED light bar. I am very pleased with how it came out with one exception... then I open the glove box where the radio is stored, it flips all the switches in the dash. the reason I have to open the glove box is because I cannot make changes to the radio (like volume and change the radio) with the remote because the IR is obviously behind the door of the glove box. I will have to look into an IR extender so I can use the remote without opening the door. of course, that is another powered source to wire in, but ill probably tie into the radio power wire. Lastly, I installed a high speed magnet and I am really glad I did. it allows me to coast instead of motor braking and I gained 2-3 mph on a straight-away.

I can upload pictures later. I have a few more interior lights left to install and I am looking for a good led light bar.

thanks again all!

Would love to see some pics, from the sound of it, you did what I am currently doing.

[bospider01]

Here's my start

[bospider01]

Follow up

[bospider01]

All finished, well, almost.

Still to come:

1. Swap out headlight for LED version
2. Led light bar
3. Reverse light wired into reverse switch
4. Red "running light" on lip of roof. (My rain cover makes the tail lights hard to see so I want to maintain visibility from behind)
5. Front seatbelts (required in my area for street legal)

[yawood]

Nice