'09 RXV not moving/ beeping issue

[nickdalzell1]

You send the bad one in to FSIP and get a reman one back. They seem to program out that beep beep crap and it is on version 5.8 software as identified via our handheld. I have no clue the price as that's more the boss's department.

We never replace controllers just for that fault unless the customer is so annoyed by it he asks us to.

[Cclax20]

New to the forum. Recently purchased a 2009 RXV knowing it was locked up and not working, but was hoping for a simple fix. Here’s what I have going on.

-Cart won’t move in F or R (wheels locked)
-Cart has 4 brand new 12v Trojan batteries.
-Reverse buzzer does sound in reverse
-Solenoid does click within a few seconds of putting carting in F or R
-Replaced the brake and nothing changed

I have a new solenoid on order but not convinced that’s my problem. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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[usgicollector]

This is where a handheld comes in real handy.

[Cclax20]

I’d also add that a rather large thud sound, from back near the engine, happens from time to time when activating the key to F/N/R. Any ideas to the source of this? Or if this thud noise is normal or healthy?


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[cgtech]

Normal, it's the brake "twist test" to qualify the brake as capable of doing its job.

[Cclax20]

So if the break test is occurring properly does that mean proper voltage is reaching the motor and brake? The brake is not unlocking after this thud noise.

Any thoughts as to where my issue may be?



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[nickdalzell1]

Normally the brake won't unlock during that test. That test is to make sure the brake holds the motor still. You then hit the gas, the brake should release and off you go.

Put it in TOW and key in N(ON) and see if you can push it.

[Cclax20]

I wish it were that easy. The cart still won’t move in run or tow[emoji2373]


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[spirentc]

I'm no expert on RXVs but i just had mine do the same thing. Drove it up to my ramps to load it into my truck( i winch it on) and flipped it into tow mode and nothing. I couldn't get it into neutral. Called where i bought it from and he had me flip the connectors under the plastic where the tow/ run switch is. that got me into neutral. Took it to the beach camping. (Should have tried driving it again before leaving) Got it off the truck and turned the key and nothing. It wouldn't move. reverse buzzer sounded. heard the solenoid click and everything. Took it to a shop and the code they read basically said the controller was shot. Got a loaner Curtis controller and and it ran again. So i upgraded to the Navitas 600 amp controller.

[cgtech]

Did you read the stickers on the top & bottom side of that cover with the connectors you used to unlock the brake? It is for "emergency situations" only. Not intended to fix any existing problems, just to get a stuck vehicle out of a spot where it cannot be sitting.