The rebuild begins...1992 Club Car DS upgrade

[Furyous]

Great job! I'll be following this one.


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[Xact1]

Furyous,

Thanks~!

So, before I bolt in the 12V battery supports, does anyone think that the angle of the battery will be an issue, or not?

The battery will be strapped around the supports, so that is not an issue. The battery is a sealed unit, doesn't require water.


Forum members, please LMK your thoughts on this!

[Xact1]

It's been about 2 weeks, and although the cart is still in pieces, a lot has been done.

I spent quite some time mocking up where I wanted the 12V accessory battery, the controller, the fuse block, and the solenoid. I finally decided on a location for everything.

The original battery hold downs were rusted and no good. I had been driving around the last couple of years without the batteries being secured. I purchased a strap kit from Harbor Freight for $9.95 and secured every battery.

I had to swap 2 of Scottyb's cables in order to make everything work. I swapped cable #7, which would normally go from B+ on the series controller to A1 on the series motor, with cable #1, which normally goes from the positive side of the solenoid to the positive side of the battery pack.


NOTE>>>>> Scottyb, if you could make cable #6 another 9 inches long, I think that this would allow more options with placement of the solenoid.

Also, I had to open the ends of the cables that mounted to the solenoid in the picture. Not a big deal, it only took a few seconds with a drill bit.

I installed a Blue Sea 5025 fuse block. I used 10 gauge wire purchased on E-bay. All connections are crimped, soldered, and heat shrink (shrunk?)

[Xact1]

Next I started some dash work. The original dash was pretty worn after 20+ years, but I did not want to spend $125.00+ on a new one.

I purchased a spray can of Duplicolor bumper paint and used adhesion promoter prior to paint. I scuffed the dash with a scotch brite pad, then used grease and wax remover, then the adhesion promoter, then paint. It actually turned out pretty good!

I am going to use a few SPST switches for the 12V accessories. I purchased these from Oznium.com. I used heat shrink to secure the plastic connector covers.

I cut the dash using a Dremel tool, and A LOT of patience. I didn't want to make a mistake here, so I took a lot of time to try and get it right.

I then went to work on the radio installation. I purchased a universal mount on E-bay for about $7.00, and then added a bolt on the back to secure the radio better than just the tabs that you are supposed to bend to secure it.

The radio harness took a long time to fabricate. I cut each wire as required, tinned each lead, fluxed, soldered, and used heat shrink on every connection.

[txbonds]

Looking good!

[Southern Guy]

Xact1, I have really really enjoyed your thread. I have recently purchased my 1st golf cart and plan on changing some things around. I will be doing a everything myself to keep the cost down. I am very green when it comes mechanical stuff like this, for example, I never knew about shocks on a lift. Your thread has been very insightful. Please keep posting!

[Xact1]

Southern Guy,

thanks! I have been very busy for the holiday season. I am hoping to get some of the wiring done in the next week, as well as the fabrication for the front speaker mounts, toggle switches, voltage meter, 12V receptacle, a few small LED lights, etc. The wiring is taking me the longest.

I will be posting some new pics next week!

[Xact1]

I finally had a chance to do a little wiring of the front dash area today.

I purchased a small sheet of 1/4 inch lexan on E-bay, and the vendor advertised a couple of free cuts, so I had them cut (2) 7 3/4 inch squares. I then took a dremel tool, and with a lot of patience, cut the curves for mounting the speaker enclosures. If I had to do this again, I would not! I probably should have just purchased a dash kit that would allow stereo and speaker installation. However, I couldn'f find any that allowed 5.25 inch speakers. I did not want the larger 6.5 speakers.

After the speaker installation, I installed the stereo, and wired it to one of the blue toggle switches. That way I am sure of no power drain to the 12V battery.

[Xact1]

Next, I installed a few LED accent lights and again wired them to a blue toggle switch. All of the LED lights, toggle switches, etc, are very inexpensive and provide a nice look to your cart. It only takes time, which I have very little of.

I took a few pics of the LED lights, I think that they look pretty good!

I also installed a 12v power adapter ($7.00) , and tested it out with my GPS unit.

I now have a stereo, some front dash lights, and a 12V power adapter installed. I have a white 9 inch LED strip that I am going to install under the body, wired to another toggle switch, to provide a work light for the battery area. That is next, and then headlights and tail lights.

[Xact1]

Today I installed a 9 inch white LED strip under the battery area. I then wired it to another blue SPST switch. I want this to be a work/access light for when I want to check the fuse block or anything else under the body.

I cut out the front cowl for a set of adjustable headlights. I highly recommend using a Dremel tool on this. It reduced the time and effort to a matter of a few minutes.

I used a Dremel 3000 corded (not cordless) and a 9903 Dremel tungsten carbide cutter. The combination of a variable speed dremel, along with this cutter, will allow you to cut plastic, fiberglass, polyurethane, etc. like butter.

I cleaned up the openings with a small barrel sander attachment on the Dremel, and then checked the fit of the aftermarket headlights. I will install them after paint, which is going to be another story.