How do I get started?

[TheOldMan]

Been watching for a cheap golf cart to convert to a spray rig for the garden.
Went to an estate auction Saturday, and there was a 3 wheel EZ-go. Didn't really intend to buy it, but it really looked good. To make a long story short, I just brought it home. It's a 94 Marathon according to the serial #. Was told that the PO passed 2 years ago, and the unit had set in the barn since that time. I did get the charger with it. Never having owned a golf cart before, I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to proceed. I pulled all the batteries and cleaned them up externally. It has 6 E2200 batts says made by Exide. Some of the cells have the top of the plates bare, so will get some distilled water this afternoon, fill them, and try charging individually them with my automotive charger. I'll probably try the EDTA rejuvenation, as I'm sure that at least most of them are not going to take a charge. Nothing to lose. the Neg post has a 4 stamped in it, so assume they were made in 1994. I'm open to all suggestions and advice. I believe this has the curtiss controller, since I see no discrete resistors.

[Volt_Ampere]

You will almost certainly end up needing new batteries. If they sat that long they are severely sulphated and won't take a charge. Do not waste too much time on them.

[kellybell]

Mine are dead too, after sitting for 5 years. Heres a trickm tho. Youwant to buy the batteries only when you absolutely have to. Get everything done until you HAVE to have batteries to go further. That way, your new batts wont sit around collecting dust. Like I said, mine are dead, so I took my 12V batt charger and hooked it up to the 2 batts that run the electrical components - horn, lights, ect. That energized those circuits and I was able to debug those circuits without buying batteries.......

[kellybell]

I used the charger set at 12 volts 35 amps, but less amps may do as well.....

[TheOldMan]

How do I determine if the controller, motor etc, are functional w/o batteries?

[kellybell]

You will need battteries for that. But you can first do the steering, brakes, suspension and horn, lights, buzzers before you get the batteries.

[TheOldMan]

Well, after a long hiatus, here I am again. Built the de-sulphater, and did the chemical addition thing, and have had no positive results. Now I'm back to square one. Looks like a new set of batteries is in line if I want to get this thing running. Right now, I'm into the thing for $275 that I paid for it. Is the 3 wheeler worth the extra $600 for the new set of batteries, or should I just cut my losses and junk it?

[DOOmsman]

You may get by with 3 12 volt deep cycle batteries if you don't need much run time.
Now I will go hide before the rocks start to fly.

[kellybell]

LOL, I agree. Just wait until Johnnie B gets wind of that!

[scottyb]

Okay, here's my two cents worth -
I never recommend anybody buys a three wheeler mostly because they're unstable in the single wheel up front takes a lot of abuse. BUT - since you got it for a good price and it looks like will do the job for you lets go for
I'm assuming you're going to use it on flat ground. That is the only way this thing is suitable for anything.

I have bought hundreds of use golf carts. Many of which were dead and/or cannibalized for parts prior to my picking them up. 95% of them ran as soon as I put batteries in and fixed a few minor connections.
Two weeks ago we put batteries in a 20-year-old golf cart that had been sitting for about six years. It ran, as I suspect yours will.

The problem I see with the cart that you've chosen is that it won't have a lot of resale value. The batteries you get for will be worth twice what the cart is worth. That's not all bad though, down the road you can sell the batteries or by a newer car with four wheels and no batteries.

I suggest you hunt around and find cheap or used golf cart batteries. They will give you much better service than deep cycle or automotive batteries.
Good luck