2012 Yamaha YDRE Wont move after battery swap

[rickhuey68]

I recently replaced the 6, 5 year old batteries on my YDRE. The old batteries would never get above 48vdc after a fresh charge but would allow the cart to run for about 15 minutes. After replacing the batteries and giving them a fresh charge the cart wont move. Checked the following:
Battery voltage after 12 hours is 51.8vdc
Solenoid clicks when moved from tow to run
Solenoid clicks when accelerator is depressed and key is on
Have 51.8 vdc on both terminals of the solenoid when accelerator is pushed
Backup buzzer works
Cart doesn't resist being pushed backward but buzzer squawks at you.

What else can I check ?

[cgtech]

Hmm, did you put tow/run switch to Tow before breaking & making connections? The "does work" things you describe point towards a fully functional wire harness, and a bad motor or controller. Since the reverse buzzer works when you push it, we know the tow/run switch works. That's all that's needed to know enough of the wire harness works to narrow it down to controller or motor, or wires from motor to controller.

[rickhuey68]

Thanks for the response. I did have the switch in TOW before doing any work.
Its just strange that by just replacing the batteries, the controller or motor would fail since they were running fine with the old batteries.

[cgtech]

I know, I have a hard time with that idea too. But the whole "controller Powers up when pushed"tells me the signal wiring harness should be fine. No need to test keyswitch, pedal switch, ect, those inputs aren't even considered by the controller when it tries to stop a cart your pushing around. This cart is all stock? Stock controller, stock motor?

[ironhorsecowboy69]

I have a Yamaha cart that want move either / just jerky when you press pedal . I changed solenoid, igniting switch, checked brushes . Get it rolling and press the pedal it will take off and run fine until you stop. D&D motor with Alltrax controller

[rickhuey68]

Cart has stock motor and controller

[rickhuey68]

New information:
Ohm readings on the motor are F1 -> F2 = 1 Ohm
A1 -> A2 = Open, Pretty sure this is wrong. Either bad brushes, finger crossed
or open winding


Voltage reading
A1 = 11v and raises up to 45 at full throttle
F1 & F2 = 2.3v and raises up to 24v at full throttle

Battery charge is 51.2v

As mentioned in first post, all other indications are normal.
I do have a TPS that is not as smooth as I'd like as seeing the voltage jump
around a bit when depressing the peddle.


So, do I have a bad control or bad brushes or motor?

[cgtech]

Pull motor. "A" readings are bad.