2009 Drive YDRE - New Motor and controller - Still wont run

[J_DORSETT]

I have been putting together a 2009 YDRE for a friend of mine, and have run into a few issues. When I first started on the cart, I charged up the batteries and started checking a few things. The controller was not supplying a ground to anything. I went ahead and ordered a new Yamaha controller for it.

Once I got the controller installed, I flipped the tow/run switch to run, turned on the key, and hit the throttle. The motor started to turn but sounded pretty bad. It ran for 5-10 seconds and then quit. After that, I could reset the controller, turn it to run, hear the solenoid click on then off, and then click again when when I hit the throttle. As soon as I hit it though, the solenoid would click back off, and I would lose everything again.

I ran through some test, and found the motor tested high resistance. Ordered a brand new motor, got it installed, and found that I was having the same issue. Now, here is where I made a bone head move this evening. Once I realized it was not working, I started tracing everything and realized that I had A1 and A2 swapped on the motor side. I moved the wires back to where they were supposed to be, and for a while the solenoid would click every time I hit the throttle (still no movement from the motor) but it wasnt completely shutting everything down. After a little while it went back to what it was doing originally and only cycling the solenoid once before completely shutting everything down again.

I am assuming that either the old motor, or my swapping of the wires has caused another controller failure, but before I condemn it, I wanted to ask some opinions first.


Lastly, I have been holding off from buying batteries for this thing hoping I could at least make sure everything else works. The pack only charges to right at 48v. Im assuming this is sufficient just for testing? Also, is there a minimum pack voltage where the controller just says no and wont do anything?

Thanks for any input.

[J_DORSETT]

Update, battery voltage didn't change anything. Tested at 51v and it does the same thing.

Voltage does not even drop .1 when you hit the throttle.

[cgtech]

Where does this new motor come into play? After the new controller was tested on the old, failed motor? If so, the new controller could already be destroyed. This is why we inspect motors when controllers are bad, bad motors often make bad controllers.

[J_DORSETT]

Yes, the motor was ordered after the new controller was installed. I checked my throttle sensor this evening for 5v in, and I'm not seeing that anymore. I did find that I have a loose connection in the main pigtail at the controller, and I will be working on that tomorrow.

[J_DORSETT]

A little bit of an update. The new controller was not supplying 5v to the throttle sensor. Plugged in it was 0 at the throttle sensor, and unplugged it was around 20v. I went ahead and ordered another controller. Got it installed today and the cart still didnt run, however i am now getting 5v on the blue wire to the throttle sensor. I am going to go ahead and order a new throttle sensor (Hopefully I can find one in stock somewhere) and see where I end up with that.

[Lateparker]

Did you get it figured out?

[J_DORSETT]

I made some progress, then 3 steps back. Found an issue with the 26 pin connector at the controller. The throttle sensor wire terminals were not making a connection with the pins of the controller. I ordered a new connector and terminals and got that replaced this evening. Before I replaced the connector though, I did temporarily fix the connections just to make sure it would run. I drove it out of the garage and it died in the driveway. I figured one of my temporary connections came loose, so I left it alone until I got the new connector installed. Got it together tonight and now it's not clicking the solenoid when I give it throttle. Solenoid clicks when I switch the toggle from tow to run, reverse buzzer works, I'm getting voltage from the stop switch to the controller, and it beeps and brakes when I roll it in run mode. Troubleshooter flow chart in the service manual says it needs a controller.

Pack voltage is a little low (47) but I drove it out of the garage at that the other day. Is there a low voltage cutoff on this thing to protect the controller from low voltage?

[cgtech]

So, just how low does that "47v" drop to when a real load is applied? "47v" is a bad looking number, like a bad battery could be involved in this....

[J_DORSETT]

I haven't been able to get it to run long enough to check that. I know that it is low. That being said, I'm not getting a load right now to test it. I know that I need to put batteries in it. When I got the cart to run before, It was around 47v (static) and it would ground the solenoid.

[J_DORSETT]

New batteries will be here tomorrow