need help! dcs clicks but wont move

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

ive tried to search to see if guys had similar issues and what they were told to try and im still coming up short.

heres the back story on the cart. I bought it running and driving but the battery tray was rotten. took the cart apart to replace the tray and ended up stripping it down to bare frame to clean and repair. the speed control and solenoid I took off as a whole unit and sat it to the side. only thing I disconnected was the f&r switch, run/tow switch, and the 4 cables to the motor. after I reinstalled the batteries and speed control ive got clicking but no movement. any ideas on where to check? I call myself testing the pedal thing to the speed control from what crash test dummy said in another thread and it seems like its working. I think the solenoid is working properly and im afraid the speed control is bad. but could it go bad from just unhooking and hooking it back up. I mean I drove it into the shop to take it apart.

[JohnnieB]

If the Run/Tow switch is in RUN when any wire were disconnected or reconnected, the controller could be blown.

Also, if the pack sit for several days and wasn't recharged charged prior to trying to move the cart, the low voltage might have taken out the DCS controller. (Stock DCS controllers have no low voltage protection)

If the solenoid clicks when the pedal is pushed, the problem is in the high current circuit.

What is the pack voltage?

Connect a DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
You should read full battery pack voltage when pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click.
What voltage do you get?

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

Im pretty sure I had the switch in the tow position but then again the cart was ghetto spray bombed and it wasn't labeled at the switch. The pack voltage was tested prior to reconnecting the controller and it was at 35.8v. I'm wrong about when it clicks. The solenoid clicks when I put it in f or r at the f&r switch but it doesn't click when I press the pedal. It was clicking when I pressed the pedal when I first connected everything but once I started testing and disconnecting wires it started working differently.

B- is the battery negative I'm assuming. What is the M-? I don't have a wire labeled that. I've got S1 and S2 from the controller to the motor and also the two smaller wires that run from the controller to the motor that are labeled A1 and A2.

[scottyb]

This looks almost impossible to sort out with a keyboard. You must have 36v or more to begin testing. Trying to troubleshoot with anything less is a waste of your and our time.

But, here is the diagram for your cart. The solenoid activation circuit + side is lined in red. Study it until you can recite the path the red line takes!

Check it from start to finish with the DVM and tell us where it fails.....

[Knothead]

Originally Posted by mazdawg(Mikey)

B- is the battery negative I'm assuming. What is the M-? I don't have a wire labeled that. I've got S1 and S2 from the controller to the motor and also the two smaller wires that run from the controller to the motor that are labeled A1 and A2.

I may be mistaken, but isn't this backwards? Shouldn't the smaller wires be going to the S1 & S2, instead of A1 & A2?

On edit.....Mikey, don't take my word on it until JohnnieB or ScottyB chime in.....just set off a red flag in my mind when I read this....

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

The carts at work. I'll memorize the paths and test stuff tomorrow morning

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

ok i tested every red line in the picture. i got 36.8 at the pack, and with the key on i got between 36.3-36.5 everywhere. i did have to press the pedal to get 36.3 at the green wire. does this make sense and what can i check next?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by mazdawg(Mikey)

ok i tested every red line in the picture. i got 36.8 at the pack, and with the key on i got between 36.3-36.5 everywhere. i did have to press the pedal to get 36.3 at the green wire. does this make sense and what can i check next?

Print the diagram out and take it with you.... 38v positive to green wire is good. Lift the 9 wire plug up just enough to slip your test leads under it and check for + power at pins 5,6,9,10. If yes but no solenoid click - check for 38 v - at pin 7, if yes put test leads on 2 small terminals at solenoid and see if 38v present and solenoid clicks. This completes the test of the solenoid activation circuit.

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

I took pictures of everything before I removed it. I went back and looked at the pics and the wires are correct I believe. I'll go back and look again, thanks for any input...help is help :)

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

Pins 5,6,9, and 10 have 36.3v. Pin 7 (blue wire) only reads 16.7v with key on and doesn't change when pedal is pressed nor do I get a click when the pedal is pressed. I only get a click when the key is first turned on