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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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#1 |
Getting Wild
![]() Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 117
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![]() I overtightened one of he small nuts on my new solenoid, and the bolt broke smooth off. I soldered the wires to what remained of it, but is there any way to replace the bolt? Its the big 400a solenoid.There is only 1/4 inch remaining, and no threads. I can't believe I did this.
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#2 |
Not Yet Wild
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: conway s.c.
Posts: 43
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![]() it may be a stud. try unscrewing it if you can. just a thought.
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#3 |
Gone Mad
![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
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![]() 1/4" should be plenty to use a rod coupling nut, which is basically a really thick nut. It may be hard to find one as small with the right threads, but if you can, thread it on, then simply use either a bolt to connect the wires, or cut the head off the bolt, thread it all the way in, then use a nut to attach the wires.
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#4 |
Gone Wild
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Central Delaware
Posts: 859
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![]() http://www.google.com/search?q=exten...w=1424&bih=736
From the left, top. The second, fifth and last, (as well as many others), are extension nuts. You can find them at any good hardware store and they come in SAE, Metric, fine and coarse threads. Has to be one for you. Thread one on the remaining stud then use a bolt, on the other end, to hold your connectors in place. |
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#5 |
Happy Carting
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 72,958
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![]() On this particular solenoid I think you can drill out the broken bolt and in stall a small bolt. Be sure to put a ring terminal on the Solenoid activation wire and reconnect it as well.
This happens ..... you will recover. ![]() And for everybody .... Electrical connections need only be snug tight, there is no force working against them, you are just tightening enough to get a solid connection. |
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#6 | |||
......................
![]() Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: FT Lauderdale FL.
Posts: 16,395
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![]() guys your fix sounds good, but, he says there is NO threads!
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#7 |
Techno-Nerd
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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![]() I don't have a solution for the broken stud issue, but please allow me to add some sage advice about working on electrical connections in carts.
![]() I use a 1/4" drive screwdriver handle with sockets or stubby nutdrivers for tightening most electrical connections and ignition wrenches for small or awkward spaces. If the nut larger than what I have 1/4" drive sockets for, I use a 1/4" to 3/8" drive adapter and use a 3/8" drive socket with my 1/4" drive handle. If I need more torque to loosen something, I try a 1/4" ratchet first, then graduate to a 3/8" ratchet or an automotive type wrench. I also use automotive type wrenches to hold the lower nut on a stud in place while loosing or tightening the top nut. Basically, I know I have strong hands and powerful arms, so I use tools that minimizes the probability that I will absentmindedly apply too much torque. |
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#8 |
Getting Wild
![]() Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 117
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![]() Good advise. I will be using nut drivers from now on. I ran to the hardware store and got a die and extention nut, but am going to leave it soldered for now. I'll chalk this up to a learning experience!
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#9 |
Flat Out Hooked on Carts
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 1,115
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![]() Why not cut new threads onto the stud with a tap/die kit?
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#10 |
Getting Wild
![]() Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 117
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![]() I may try that. I need to de-solder those wires, and get in there and start working on it. I don't trust my soldering skills very much anyways
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