2010 TXT (PDS) New (rebuilt) controller and new motor no movement at motor

[badabing7]

Pack voltage is 37.5.

It seems my solenoid voltages are always present across the two main lugs (key off, BATT side is 37.5 and Cont side is 35.5)

I'll fun the F-20 checks.

I thank you SO much for this! I'm watching like a crazy man for responses lol!

[badabing7]

following the first step on F-20, the white wire shows 14v stationary and drops to 13.7 when the pedal is depressed.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by badabing7

following the first step on F-20, the white wire shows 14v stationary and drops to 13.7 when the pedal is depressed.

Never noticed it before, the service manual text is different than the troubleshooting tree that precedes it. Text is wrong!!!!!!

J4 Pin-4 (White wire) should be 15V +/- 1V.
J4 Pin-3 (Black wire) should be 1.0V +/- 0.3V when solenoid clicks and 2.9V +/- 0.4V

ITS checkout starts at Step 41 on tree.

Also attached.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by badabing7

Pack voltage is 37.5.

It seems my solenoid voltages are always present across the two main lugs (key off, BATT side is 37.5 and Cont side is 35.5)

I'll fun the F-20 checks.

I thank you SO much for this! I'm watching like a crazy man for responses lol!

There is a 250Ω resistor connected between the two large posts to keep the filter capacitors inside the controller charged up to near the battery pack voltage. Typically, to about 3v to 5V less than the battery pack voltage when the solenoid contacts are not closed.

After solenoid clicks (contacts close) the voltage on both larger terminals ought to be IDENTICAL. If your battery pack voltage is 37.5V, than both large terminals should have 37.5V on them.

The batteries are in need of charging.

[badabing7]

.8 on black wire stationary
solenoid click 1.0
pedal depressed 2.8
waiting on a new ITS from Amazon....says be here tonight by 9...fingers crossed!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by badabing7

.8 on black wire stationary
solenoid click 1.0
pedal depressed 2.8
waiting on a new ITS from Amazon....says be here tonight by 9...fingers crossed!

The ITS is within specs, so a new one probably won't change anything.

The battery is low, but the cart ought to move a bit with 37.5V, if the solenoid contacts are good and the controller is good.

Solenoid check:
Should have exactly the same voltage on both large terminals when pedal is pushed far enough to make solenoid click.
If the voltage large terminals varies at all after the solenoid clicks, the solenoid is bad.

Checking controller:
If you get full, repeat full, battery pack voltage between B- and A1 terminals when pedal is pushed just far enough to make the solenoid click, but it doesn't decrease when pedal is pushed further, either the throttle is bad or the controller is bad.

From what I can tell from what you've said, I strongly suspect the controller is bad.

[badabing7]

Charged pack up some, 38.9v is pack voltage now, when solenoid clicks controller side has 38.3v, I knew I should have picked up a solenoid today, the only golf cart place I know of is closed on the weekends...

Secondary question, what would totally charged pack voltage be with 6 new batteries? The charger I have is an aftermarket and I've not had any way to make sure it worked well enough so I've been leery of letting it charge "fully" because I don't know what that really is lol. I'll do some digging.

[handtools]

Here's a chart to help you out with battery charging. These are readings 12 hours after charger shuts off without using cart. A 36v battery pack can get as high as 45-46v when charging.

CartsUnlimitedStateofChargeChart.png

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by badabing7

1. Charged pack up some, 38.9v is pack voltage now, when solenoid clicks controller side has 38.3v, I knew I should have picked up a solenoid today, the only golf cart place I know of is closed on the weekends...

2. Secondary question, what would totally charged pack voltage be with 6 new batteries? The charger I have is an aftermarket and I've not had any way to make sure it worked well enough so I've been leery of letting it charge "fully" because I don't know what that really is lol. I'll do some digging.

1. It appears that the solenoid contacts are making contact. Not perfect, but good enough for troubleshooting. Also, the 38.9V reading indicates a bit of surface charge, which has very little storage capacity and drops very quickly when any amps are drawn and some amps are drawn when the solenoid contacts close, so the battery voltage may have dropped to 38.3V and the voltage differential was closer to 0V. A sure way of telling is to connect the DVM between the solenoid's larger terminals. The DVM will show a few volts when the solenoid contacts are open, but should read 0V, or very close to it, when the contacts are closed.

2. What the 100% SoC (State of Charge) voltage is depends on the brand of the batteries. The chart attached to the above post is for Trojan brand batteries and their clones. What is the make/model of your batteries?

Also what is the make/model of your charger? If it is a 36V golf cart battery charger, it should be allowed to charge the batteries until it shuts itself off.

Lead-acid batteries have no memory and should be charged after each use and never be allow to sit in a partially discharged state for any significant length of time. In other words, if the cart is used during the day, the batteries should be charged that night.

New batteries need to be broken in. Here is how to do it: https://www.cartsunlimited.net/battery-break-in-.html

While you are on that site, click on FAQs and read everything battery related. Lots of other good info also.

[badabing7]

Awesome! Once again thanks for everything!!! New (2nd) controller fixed it.

Guess what threw me with the batteries is I put a meter on it and it says full... I’ll be reading the FAQ’s, didn’t know about the break in so you’re already helping me a ton!

I got the Duracell batteries from Sams Club. I’ve got the charger hooked up let it charge till I go to work in the morning then run it tomorrow