DCS wont run...help please

[UNKL_AL'S]

The solenoid on my DCS cart is not operating. the solenoid is good, but the blue wire (ground side, low current) is not making continuity to ground. my DVOM shows that it is, BUT its not. If I jump that terminal to ground the solenoid works.

all the micro switches, FWD, RVS, off throttle, are operating and show continuity when appropriate. so is the controller bad and just not making continuity to ground on the blue wire?

So the question is: what does the controller need to see to energize(????? or is the term "deliver ground"????) the solenoid?

thanks

[dylan schumacher]

make a clean ground. use some contact cleaner and then try it. make sure it isn't ripped

[sonnysmith]

For some real good information.See my thread (resistor gets hot) JohnnieB help me find my problem.

[UNKL_AL'S]

ok, update:

Dylan, I dont know what you mean by "make sure it isnt ripped". the ground cable or what isnt ripped? the cables are all in good repair, system voltage is 37.8, and the batteries all have even voltage.

anyway, sonnysmith, I checked that thread and followed johnnieb's checks and it seems that the controller is bad.

With the F/R switch in F, the TOW/RUN switch in RUN, key on, and throttle depressed to just past micro switch engagement- I have B+ voltage on pins 5,6,7,9,10.
If I understood everything correctly, that means the controller is seeing all necessary conditions to close the solenoid coil(ground pin 7), but not doing so.(BAD CONTROLLER). .....correct?

AND.....

hopefully this dosnt misdirect anyone, but, with the battery pack disconnected, if I jump terminals A2 and S2, and supply positive to A1 and negative to S1, the motor spins- but very slowly. IS THE MOTOR BAD??? DID THAT DESTROY THE CONTROLLER???

[JohnnieB]

Having B+ on Pin-7 says all the switches in that series chain and the solenoid coil are good.
Having B+ on Pins 5, 6, 9 and 10 says that the controller is being told to apply B- on Pin-7 to complete the solenoid activation circuit.
IF it isn't doing it, the controller is bad, or the B- cable from the battery pack is bad.

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You're trying to test a Shunt wound motor the same way a Series wound motor is tested, but if it spins, it is probably good.

You stated in your first post that the solenoid clicked when you grounded the blue wire. (hopefully you attached blue wire to B-)
The motor might spin if you pushed throttle when solenoid is closed.
Of course, we already know that part of controller is bad, so motor speed control part might be also.

[UNKL_AL'S]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Having B+ on Pin-7 says all the switches in that series chain and the solenoid coil are good.
Having B+ on Pins 5, 6, 9 and 10 says that the controller is being told to apply B- on Pin-7 to complete the solenoid activation circuit.
IF it isn't doing it, the controller is bad, or the B- cable from the battery pack is bad.

------------
You're trying to test a Shunt wound motor the same way a Series wound motor is tested, but if it spins, it is probably good.

You stated in your first post that the solenoid clicked when you grounded the blue wire. (hopefully you attached blue wire to B-)
The motor might spin if you pushed throttle when solenoid is closed.
Of course, we already know that part of controller is bad, so motor speed control part might be also.

excellent!!! well, sort of. at least now I can be sure of the problem. I was testing the motor because when I jumped the solenoid it still wouldnt go, but if the controller is bad, then who knows what other circuts in the controller are bad, like you said. Ill take it one step at a time and get a new controller on the way. Do these controllers just "go out"? or should i be hunting hard for the problem?

THANKS!!!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by UNKL_AL'S

excellent!!! well, sort of. at least now I can be sure of the problem. I was testing the motor because when I jumped the solenoid it still wouldnt go, but if the controller is bad, then who knows what other circuts in the controller are bad, like you said. Ill take it one step at a time and get a new controller on the way. Do these controllers just "go out"? or should i be hunting hard for the problem?

THANKS!!!

Don't get a stock DCS controller, they have a fatal flaw. Let the battery voltage get too low and they self destruct. (Might be what happened to yours.)

Recommend something like an Alltrax DCX400(DCS).
ScottyB sells some controller/solenoid packages for DCS carts about 2/3 the way down the page.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html