2010 i2 excel precedent electrical fault

[Birchie]

G’day guy's,
Sorry to bother you with my dilemma but I live in a very remote part of Australia & wish to purchase from you whatever I need to get my Club Car moving.
I have just purchased a 2010 i2 Excel Club Car Precedent with serial number PH1046-148983 & has 6 x 8 volt batteries
I drove it on, & when I got home, I took it off the trailer, no dramas, & drove it around the back of my house, put it on charge for the next couple of days whilst I worked night shift.
I finished night shifts, grabbed a 6 pack of beer & went to play a quick 9 holes & the bloody thing did nothing.
I have had a bit of a look & it does not matter if the key is on or off. Whether the tow/run switch is in tow or run, the precharge resister stays hot. I mean really hot. It has melted the plastic insulation.
Sometimes when I have it in reverse & flick it from tow to run it will give 1 quick “buzz” & then nothing.
There is nothing wrong with the batteries as they still have 49.8 volts after sitting over Xmas. I have disconnected the positive terminal so as to stop the resister from overheating.
My current controller is a Curtis 1515-5201. The female 16 pin plug looks a bit iffy to me so I would like another one of those as well. I can fit the connectors to my wiring harness & clip them into the new plug, or if you have a good 2nd hand plug I will be able to fit that to my existing harness. Or do i grab one of Scottyb"s bundles plus an IQ wiring harness. i read in the threads somewhere that the Excel harness is not compatible to the Alltrax controller.
I opened the solenoid up & the insulation at the top has bubbles & a bit melted on the side where the coil is soldered to the connectors & there is small dots of solder on the coil itself. So I will need a new solenoid & resister to suit. My current solenoid is an Albright with 2 numbers. SU60-2122P & SOL10117883. Hope this is helping?
The On Board Computer is made by Lester Electrical & has a couple of numbers. LE 0818018287 V4 & part number 26660-02 & another number being 103446601.
The electric motor is stock & is an EJ8-4001A 3.3hp.
If it would be better to talk to me in person for any other information you require please email me your phone number & include all prefixes like the international number/code.
I am on Australian Central Standard Time, so please give me a time when it would suite you to have a chat. It doesn’t bother me if it’s the middle of the night here.
As I stated above I live remote. A very small town called Nhulunbuy, pronounced noo-len-boy, situated at the very N/E point of the Northern Territory Australia. I would like your input & advice, & I would also like to purchase what I need from you.
I will pay express postage, I guess through Fedex or the like to:
Paul Birch
PO Box 1432
Nhulunbuy
NT
Australia 0881
(the 0881 is my post code in Australia)
I really hope you can help me out.
Cheers
Birchie

[scottyb]

I have turned on the batman light over Gotham City....help should arrive.

[Birchie]

cheers mate. i appreciate the help. i may have to have a nap shortly as it is 02:35am

[TahoeDawgZ71]

I saw this post..... but I'm not gonna answer it until I get home tonight and have time. This place is hectic.

[SC Carts]

Originally Posted by Birchie

G’day guy's,
Sorry to bother you with my dilemma but I live in a very remote part of Australia & wish to purchase from you whatever I need to get my Club Car moving.
I have just purchased a 2010 i2 Excel Club Car Precedent with serial number PH1046-148983 & has 6 x 8 volt batteries
I drove it on, & when I got home, I took it off the trailer, no dramas, & drove it around the back of my house, put it on charge for the next couple of days whilst I worked night shift.
I finished night shifts, grabbed a 6 pack of beer & went to play a quick 9 holes & the bloody thing did nothing.
I have had a bit of a look & it does not matter if the key is on or off. Whether the tow/run switch is in tow or run, the precharge resister stays hot. I mean really hot. It has melted the plastic insulation.
Sometimes when I have it in reverse & flick it from tow to run it will give 1 quick “buzz” & then nothing.
There is nothing wrong with the batteries as they still have 49.8 volts after sitting over Xmas. I have disconnected the positive terminal so as to stop the resister from overheating.
My current controller is a Curtis 1515-5201. The female 16 pin plug looks a bit iffy to me so I would like another one of those as well. I can fit the connectors to my wiring harness & clip them into the new plug, or if you have a good 2nd hand plug I will be able to fit that to my existing harness. Or do i grab one of Scottyb"s bundles plus an IQ wiring harness. i read in the threads somewhere that the Excel harness is not compatible to the Alltrax controller.
I opened the solenoid up & the insulation at the top has bubbles & a bit melted on the side where the coil is soldered to the connectors & there is small dots of solder on the coil itself. So I will need a new solenoid & resister to suit. My current solenoid is an Albright with 2 numbers. SU60-2122P & SOL10117883. Hope this is helping?
The On Board Computer is made by Lester Electrical & has a couple of numbers. LE 0818018287 V4 & part number 26660-02 & another number being 103446601.
The electric motor is stock & is an EJ8-4001A 3.3hp.
If it would be better to talk to me in person for any other information you require please email me your phone number & include all prefixes like the international number/code.
I am on Australian Central Standard Time, so please give me a time when it would suite you to have a chat. It doesn’t bother me if it’s the middle of the night here.
As I stated above I live remote. A very small town called Nhulunbuy, pronounced noo-len-boy, situated at the very N/E point of the Northern Territory Australia. I would like your input & advice, & I would also like to purchase what I need from you.
I will pay express postage, I guess through Fedex or the like to:
Paul Birch
PO Box 1432
Nhulunbuy
NT
Australia 0881
(the 0881 is my post code in Australia)
I really hope you can help me out.
Cheers
Birchie

Wait for TahoeDawg he will get you all sorted out, just another day in the park for him!

[dave*m]

your controller is shot.That resistor is for keeping the capacitors charged up in the controller.So if it gets hot enough to melt the plastic you have a short in the capacitors.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

The problem you're experiencing is most likely due to an internal short in the controller. Another possibility, although unlikely, is a short in the motor. Put the car in TOW, disconnect all four wires from the motor and perform a continuity test on the motor with a multimeter. You'll want to test for continuity between A1 and A2, and F1 and F2. These are the only two places you want continuity. If you have it from any of these four posts and the base of the motor, you have a short. If you have it between any A post and any F post, you have a short. Once you've confirmed that the motor isn't shorted you may replace the controller. I would recommend buying an IQ harness from a dealer and replacing your Excel harness with it due to the fact that you mentioned upgrading the cart with an aftermarket controller. The aftermarket world doesn't make Excel controllers yet, so this is the best way to do what you want to do. You mentioned buying just the 16 pin connector. As far as I know, they're not sold separately, and if anybody ever finds otherwise please let me know. Thanks.

[Birchie]

Thanks TahoeDawgZ71.
Dave, i will test the motor as you say. if the motor is fine i will keep it stock for now.
i will be buying a new solenoid & precharge resister plus a controller. in your opinion would it be best to keep the original harness & buy a Sepex 350 amp controller or buy an IQ harness & get an Altrax.
i am a newby & to a certain extent flying buy the seat of my pants & value all input/help.
cheers. i will go out the back & do some testing.
thanks again Dave & Dave-m

[TahoeDawgZ71]

I have no problem with replacing the existing controller... But where are you going to get the Sepex 350 amp controller you speak of? The only controller that works with the excel car is the excel controller and it's not 350 amps