Is this Charger dead???

[BAILEY331]

I walked into the shop yesterday to a strange smell. After looking all over I discovered it was coming from the charging unit plugged into my old EZ Go. It had been charging for about 7 hours. I opened the charger up and found dirt dobber heaven. I cleaned it all up to discover the problem. There is a cylinder inside the charger with two red wires going to it. The cylinder has ruptured towards the top and leaked out some kind of fluid. I thought it might be acid but it didn't bubble up when I cleaned it with some baking soda. My question is can I fix/replace the ruptured component. or is this charger dead in the water. Any help is always welcome. Thanks

[yurtle]

That is a capacitor. Just read the label and get an equivalent motor RUN - not start - capacitor with the same or higher voltage rating, and the same capacitance, which is microfarads. Could buy one the same size to use the mounting bracket, but this isn't necessary, it you don't mind doing a little fab work to mount it.

Be sure to short the two terminals together with a screwdriver - wear safety goggles. It could still hold a charge even though it's ruptured.

It's kinda like a little battery. It can hold a lethal - or at least painful - charge. Once discharged, it's safe to work on. If you're anal, once you discharge it, wrap a wire around the two terminals, as they sometimes "recharge" just a little.

[BAILEY331]

Thanks for the direction Yurtle. I would have shocked myself for sure once I when to pull it out.

Looking on the web (golf cart king and a few others) none of the capacitors give any info on on whether its a motor "Run" or "start". How will I determine this? These two I'm listing have different mf (?micro farads? I'm guessing) ratings but I'm not sure what mine it. Is this a common problem once a unit gets older. I mean I'm getting older and blow things out all the time.

[TheOldMan]

A rub capacitor is in a metal can, and is a low value, usually 50 to 30 ufd. A start cap is in a plastic can, and is higher value, 185ufd etc. Look at the old cap closely, it should have a value stamped in the case, something like 25ufd@370v. Take it with you and go to an electric motor shop or an airconditioning supply house. if it's stamped, they'll sell you a new one.

the first photo is the one you want ... cartking only sells things that work in carts ...

Capacitor. 20.5MF rating. For older Lester 36-volt.

btw , it's the one i used when my old timer charger stopped

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by TheOldMan

A rub capacitor is in a metal can, and is a low value, usually 50 to 30 ufd. A start cap is in a plastic can, and is higher value, 185ufd etc. Look at the old cap closely, it should have a value stamped in the case, something like 25ufd@370v. Take it with you and go to an electric motor shop or an airconditioning supply house. if it's stamped, they'll sell you a new one.

I should have said that. Really old start caps were waxed paper. I still have some in my capacitor drawer, sitting next to my electrolytics, pulse, and mica transmitting caps. I have a separate box fulla run caps, since I have so many.

[BAILEY331]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm glad its a fixable thing. I was afraid I was going to have to go get a whole new charger.

[JohnnieB]

It is fixable, but the capacitor has to have the correct µF or it won't work right.

If at all possible, read the µF value on the old capacitor and get the same number.

With the transformer leads disconnected from the diodes, you should get 60VAC between them without the capacitor connected and about 90VAC with it connected. If the capacitance value is wrong, the boost will be wrong.

[BAILEY331]

And I can do that with my multi tester JohnnieB

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by BAILEY331

And I can do that with my multi tester JohnnieB

If it measures AC volts, yes.

The test is labeled Transformer test, but you are also checking the capacitor.