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Old 04-24-2019, 02:43 AM   #11
woodyking
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Yesterday I cured my ignition problem, I hope! I pulled the cover, took off the fan, everything was coated with a layer of dust that had stuck to the oil film from the crankshaft seal. This dust layer was inside the cover as well. This is a new engine, less than 40 hours, and the seal has stopped leaking I believe. One half can of brake cleaner, All around the pulser area, checked air gap, was around .020, so good there. I added about six inches of wire to the leads from the pulser to make them easier to get to. Put everything back together, it runs great. I had the spark plugs out, connected to leads and grounded, spun the engine while cover was off, great spark after cleaning.
I had read this somewhere before, but that was my problem. Drove it around for about an hour, all is good.
So, if it's oily at all underneath the engine on that side, it's worth a try!!!
Woody
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Old 04-24-2019, 02:48 AM   #12
woodyking
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Yesterday I cured my ignition problem, I hope! I pulled the cover, took off the fan, everything was coated with a layer of dust that had stuck to the oil film from the crankshaft seal. This dust layer was inside the cover as well. This is a new engine, less than 40 hours, and the seal has stopped leaking I believe. One half can of brake cleaner, All around the pulser area, checked air gap, was around .020, so good there. I added about six inches of wire to the leads from the pulser to make them easier to get to. Put everything back together, it runs great. I had the spark plugs out, connected to leads and grounded, spun the engine while cover was off, great spark after cleaning.
I had read this somewhere before, but that was my problem. Drove it around for about an hour, all is good.
So, if it's oily at all underneath the engine on that side, it's worth a try!!!
Woody
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Old 04-24-2019, 12:27 PM   #13
Rooster59
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Thanks for the follow up Woody. A friend has a 295 that may be experiencing the same problem. I'll send him after a can of degreaser.
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Old 04-24-2019, 06:02 PM   #14
trig123
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

I guess there is a first for anything but I sort of doubt that is going to fix this issue.
Just in case the person is still having problems maybe we can help him someway
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Old 04-25-2019, 08:10 PM   #15
trig123
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

ncfenceguy , did you ever get this thing running ? I was thinking bad ignitor but wanted to check in with you. No test for that part. Best to try one first before you spend the big bucks.

Make sure the wire coming from ignitor that is black with white stripe is grounded on bracket. So many times these metal brackets than hold the voltage regulator, ignitor and solenoid are rusty on bottom and don't make good contact.
Keep us updated.
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:48 AM   #16
ncfenceguy
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Ok.....It's time for a bonfire. A can of gas, match and a EZGO...
I tested the pulsars coils I have (2 new) and all match the specs Trig123 posted. I tested the coils (2 new)and the ohms are in spec also. I ran a new 10 guage ground wire from the battery negative, to the ignitor mounting plate, to the frame, the motor and the coil bracket. I have switched between 2 new ignitors and one old, and they all do the same after everything was done. .1 volt AC from the pulsar coil no matter which one or where it's gapped, (I have 2 Greenlee meters set to 200 AC), 12v hot to the red wire on the coil, blinking 10.7 on the white wire. Before I started we have pulled every wire out of the loom and tested for continuity, still nothing. Unless I have bad new parts (I've seen it before, thanks China), I don't know what else to look for......
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:36 AM   #17
trig123
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Last year I bought a cart like yours that was doing the same thing. The man installed all new ignition parts and finally give up and sold it to me for next to nothing. No fire at all. They had cut and redone almost all the wires on this cart except the one that was the problem.
I found a bad connection where your pulser wires connects to wiring harness . Look good up close at those two female connectors and see if one has spread open.
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Old 04-26-2019, 12:00 PM   #18
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Do you have a wire diagram for it? All the wires are definitely in the correct places?
Are you testing voltage with the wires connected to the pulse coil, or disconnected? 200V setting may be too high for the meter to properly read if the coil is only producing 0.5v anyway. Do you have a meter with a lower AC range setting?

As long as all the wires are connected where they should be then I'd agree with Trig. There's a connection issue somewhere. Corroded terminals, corrosion inside a wire, or an internal wire break.

Does the CDI unit get power from the key switch? Does it have a good ground?
Is the ignition coil properly grounded to the block? Does the engine block have a good ground connection to the frame or to the battery?
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Old 04-26-2019, 12:18 PM   #19
trig123
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ezgo-...ml#post1552806
Last one here.
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Old 04-26-2019, 02:16 PM   #20
CP241
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Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

You keep going back to the pulsar coil, but getting the same results. Time to look somewhere else.

Trig, Are these plug boots straight through, or are they a ~5k boot? I can't recall off the top of my head...

resistor plug caps/boots are common to fail on small engines, because they are the closest to exposure with the heat from the motor. They will generally fail in an "open" state so the ignitor, coil, wires, etc do what they are supposed to, but the spark will never pass through the plug cap to the spark plug itself, so no spark.


I still say if youve tried several pulsar coils, all with the exact same readings, it's time to look somewhere else. they are probably fine. especially if one of them works on another cart so it's a known good part, and you have the signal getting to the coil as you said you had before.
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