Activating "Low Speed Mode" / installing the switch

[LakewayIcon]

Originally Posted by __JAG__

That is not correct. There is Accel and Decel parameters for High speed mode.
06.02.02 through 06.02.15
And separate Accel and Decel parameters for Low Speed mode
06.02.20 through 06.02.23

Note: The low speed mode parameters for Accel and Decel are only visible if logged in as Super.

It is correct for the old software. My cart is 2020, not 2022

[LakewayIcon]

IT WORKED!!!

My cart is 2020 and I connected a wire to the #2 Pin, and activated Low Speed Mode by changing the setting from 0 to 1.

Now, by default the cart has max RPM of the LOW SPEED setting. When you connect the #2 pin to ground, you get the high speed setting.

Note on switching while in motion:
It works perfect in both directions. Low to high, you just speed up. High to low I was worried that I would lock the cart up of heavy deceleration but it didn't, you just lost power and bled off speed until the limit was reached and then the power kicked back in.

[KRAZYMATT]

Originally Posted by LakewayIcon

IT WORKED!!!

My cart is 2020 and I connected a wire to the #2 Pin, and activated Low Speed Mode by changing the setting from 0 to 1.

Now, by default the cart has max RPM of the LOW SPEED setting. When you connect the #2 pin to ground, you get the high speed setting.

Note on switching while in motion:
It works perfect in both directions. Low to high, you just speed up. High to low I was worried that I would lock the cart up of heavy deceleration but it didn't, you just lost power and bled off speed until the limit was reached and then the power kicked back in.

Cool. Good to have confirmation. So now it has been confirmed that it can be done to vehicles with either controller. Just the procedure is different so people will need to make sure which controller type they are working on as to not short anything out on their controller! I have the proper pins for these connectors.

[LakewayIcon]

Originally Posted by KRAZYMATT

Cool. Good to have confirmation. So now it has been confirmed that it can be done to vehicles with either controller. Just the procedure is different so people will need to make sure which controller type they are working on as to not short anything out on their controller! I have the proper pins for these connectors.

Yes, and adding the pins is not simple, you need to pop the red part loose from the plug, but not all the way off, then put the pin in and then snap the red part back.

[311DaveR]

Originally Posted by KRAZYMATT

Yes, that is correct. The controller has provision for a low speed mode however icon did not opt to take advantage of it. It can be added and IT will work. It involves adding a pin to the main 35pin connector for the controller and hooking it up to a toggle switch. Once the switch is added you need the programming cord and software (which sounds like you have). With that you need to go in the programming and enable the low speed mode input. Then set your limits for the low speed mode. this is referenced as (LSM) in the software. The vehicle is obviously in HSM by default as it is the ONLY mode it is configured for. I have the part number for the tyco pins needed and have the parameter changes that need to be made written down somewhere. Josh (__JAG__) has done this modification with success and it is verified working. It is possible but a rather advanced modification for most users. I am working on a 100% plug and play version for the ICON/LVTong vehicles and hope to have it tested in the next month or so…

Hey there KRAZYMATT, I'll take one of your first run setups when you are ready. I should have my programming capabilities in place early this week (just waiting on my molex connector for my cable, but software, USB and drivers are ready to go). Let me know how best to proceed, and of course I can wait the 30ish days. I just purchased an I40L and look forward to having what looks like a nifty factory-ready switch.

Thanks,
DaveR

[KRAZYMATT]

Originally Posted by LakewayIcon

Yes, and adding the pins is not simple, you need to pop the red part loose from the plug, but not all the way off, then put the pin in and then snap the red part back.

Yes the ampseal connectors can be tricky, as you mentioned you first need to release the red wedgelock but not remove, insert pin, you’ll feel and hear it click into place then reinstall the wedgelock and make sure it’s clipped on both sides! To remove them you twist them 90 degrees and rock back and forth with slight pulling pressure.

[KRAZYMATT]

Originally Posted by 311DaveR

Hey there KRAZYMATT, I'll take one of your first run setups when you are ready. I should have my programming capabilities in place early this week (just waiting on my molex connector for my cable, but software, USB and drivers are ready to go). Let me know how best to proceed, and of course I can wait the 30ish days. I just purchased an I40L and look forward to having what looks like a nifty factory-ready switch.

Thanks,
DaveR

I am still in the testing stages of the plug and play kit. If you have the programming cable and this is something you’re comfortable tackling as described in this thread I have the pins for the factory connector and switch I could sell…

[311DaveR]

Originally Posted by KRAZYMATT

I am still in the testing stages of the plug and play kit. If you have the programming cable and this is something you’re comfortable tackling as described in this thread I have the pins for the factory connector and switch I could sell…

If you don't mind, shoot me a PM as I would like to know what a completed solution will cost versus just the parts as you mentioned earlier. I am in no hurry, and would welcome a "connector" if you are making one, but let's chat.

Thanks,
DaveR

[__JAG__]

Originally Posted by KRAZYMATT

Yes the ampseal connectors can be tricky, as you mentioned you first need to release the red wedgelock but not remove, insert pin, you’ll feel and hear it click into place then reinstall the wedgelock and make sure it’s clipped on both sides! To remove them you twist them 90 degrees and rock back and forth with slight pulling pressure.

Keep your wire gauge small as well. I would keep if 18AWG or below. You will have difficulties getting a larger gauge wire to work.

[311DaveR]

Originally Posted by __JAG__

Keep your wire gauge small as well. I would keep if 18AWG or below. You will have difficulties getting a larger gauge wire to work.

Probably worth sharing, but when I made my programming cable I used garage door wire and it worked very well. Nice and stiff, easy and cheap. I know this application is perhaps a little different, but might be a good option.

Just wanted to share as it might be applicable here as well.
DaveR