95 Ezgo DCS, no solenoid click, wont go

[Ozzy88]

I put in new batteries, cables. Ran for a second and quit. I have full voltage on all 4 posts of solenoid, is that right? I jumped main terminals on solenoid just for kicks and it still wouldnt move. Tow switch ohms good. Full voltage at key switch, and on reed return wire. Any tips? About ready to burn it!

[scottyb]

Check the controller.... key one, in gear, meter on B- and M-. read voltage as the solenoid clicks (should equal the pack voltage) Then watch meter as the peddle is pressed down. (reading should go down to zero)

[Ozzy88]

Thats the thing, solenoid doesnt click. Full 40 volts on all 4 posts of solenoid, is that how its suppose to be?

[scottyb]

not really, look at this.

[Ozzy88]

Thanks for that illistration Scotty, will check it tomorrow and let u know! looks like ive got a hot leaking over some where

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Ozzy88

Thanks for that illistration Scotty, will check it tomorrow and let u know! looks like ive got a hot leaking over some where

Not really. It looks to me like you aren't getting the cold where it needs to be.

You are getting B+ (hot) to one side of the solenoid coil like it should be, but you are not getting B- (cold) to the other side, which is needed to energize solenoid.

B- is supplied by the controller via Pin-7 when the Pedal microswitch tells the controller to connect B- to Pin-7.
So the blue wire from Pin-7 to solenoid might be bad,
Or the controller isn't being told to connect B- to Pin-7,
Or the controller is being told to do it and isn't doing it.

With Run/Tow in Run, Keyswitch ON, F/R in F, Pedal pressed and DVM negative test lead connected to Main negative terminal on battery pack.
Measure voltage at following pins on controller with 10 pin connector plugged in.

Pins 5, 6, 9 & 10 should all have full battery pack voltage.
If it is missing, trace the wire hack on the attached schematic and find out why and fix it.

If they are all "Hot" like they are supposed to be, check Pin-7.
If it is also Hot, the controller is bad.
If it is Cold, the blue wire between Pin-7 and solenoid coil is bad.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Not really. It looks to me like you aren't getting the cold where it needs to be.

That's a good one. When I hear folks referring to a broken wire as a "short" I tell them it's technically a "long".

[Ozzy88]

Started looking around at solenoid, and the diode is missing from the activation solenoid. Think my controller is shot from that?

[scottyb]

hard to say, you need a resistor and a diode on any ESC though.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Ozzy88

1. Started looking around at solenoid, and the diode is missing from the activation solenoid.
2. Think my controller is shot from that?

1. Which diode?
There are two diodes shown on schematic. One on the right side of page close to the F/R switch and the other on the left side close to the solenoid.
The one by the F/R switch may not exist in your cart since there were two types of F/R switches used. The one with the diode is more common so I posted that schematic.
Here is the schematic without the "Reverse Diode"

2. Maybe. If it is the diode on the solenoid that is missing.
However, the DCS controller was susceptible to many things. IE: No low voltage protection

IF controller is bad, replace it with an aftermarket one and you'll have a cart with pretty decent speed and torque.