36 Volt 1981 Solenoid question

[nickdalzell1]

You can, but you can also run the key switch yellow wire to main pack positive.

Unless you're talking about the yellow 'half speed reverse' wire, you can just disconnect it from that battery and put it on the main positive

[Mooncarter]

Isn't the key switch negative on those carts?

[nickdalzell1]

According to the diagram posted, one wire of key switch seems to get its power from either main B+ or the F/R switch lug coming from that battery, the other side goes to the lockout microswitch in the F/R switch, with the other microswitch wire going to the throttle sensor group, and those output to the solenoid positive activation side. The negative activation side is going to B-. The main B- wire often is going to the motor S2 terminal.

Key switch opens/closes the circuit to the throttle activation/drive circuit. It can work both ways. I've seen some odd repairs from customers, who either bypass the switch entirely or rig up toggle switches. the cars are quite simple and most folks with basic understanding of electrical work can figure one out. That's quite different from most modern cars which can take an engineering degree to figure out.

[Mooncarter]

Look at the diagram in the Stickies, it clearly goes to pack negative. (via the charging receptacle)

The OP here should compare his cart to what the diagram is. You can't just throw pack positive to something because it "can" be modified that way.

[4U2NVME]

I'll see if I can find the sticky you are talking about.. I was going to trace, or try to trace back from the speed control slide box, to see if it went back to my F/R selector.... or see where it went.

TBH I am not sure it goes to the F/R switch, because if I remember I only have 36 and 18 volts out of there... but I have 12 volts at my speed controller solenoids...so they may be pulling it from somewhere else....

I think this is the one I want..

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...html#post16472

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by 4U2NVME

I'll see if I can find the sticky you are talking about.. I was going to trace, or try to trace back from the speed control slide box, to see if it went back to my F/R selector.... or see where it went.

TBH I am not sure it goes to the F/R switch, because if I remember I only have 36 and 18 volts out of there... but I have 12 volts at my speed controller solenoids...so they may be pulling it from somewhere else....

I think this is the one I want..

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...html#post16472

Yes.

[4U2NVME]

Ok, not making alot of sense... he is pulling it off of battery #3 to the key switch... when I measure it from ground to battery #3 its 25ish volts.. but across the key its 12 volts and 12 volts at the solenoids and it is firing off the first and 5th speed solenoid when I press the gas pedal.

When I attach they key to battery 1, I get 36v at the low amperage terminals ( 38 volts ) but it will not close the solenoid and complete the circuit to spin the tires. I am also getting 36 across the buzzer and far limit switch...

I tried to connect one of my loose solenoids using a jumper from one of the solenoids in the cart, and it was giving 36 volts when I closed the micro switch, but it would not close the loose solenoids as well...

[Mooncarter]

I don't know what the previous owner may have done. Wire it exactly the way the diagram shows.

Look at the diagram 1981-1985 in the stickies. The key switch picks up 36v negative at the negative side of the charging port. It does not run to/from a battery.

[Mooncarter]

And, as far as I can tell, the diagram above is correct as well.

[Fairtax4me]

You key switch should be on the negative side. The micro switches get power from the B+ cable at the FnR switch. Each micro switch then provides 36v to each solenoid in progression as the throttle is pushed. The solenoids are then connected to negative through the key switch. The key switch should be connected to pack negative at the Charge receptacle.

You should be checking voltage at each solenoid as you press the throttle down. Each one should get 36v. If they do not, check the positive supply for the microswitches and verify it is connected to B+ at the FnR switch. A bad connection here can cause low voltage supply to the solenoids.