04 txt radio issues

[sf04txt]

hey guys...

Im having problems with my radio and I've searched and cant find anything on what mine is doing... I have a 04 txt 36V and I have a voltage reducer hooked up with the yellow key switch wire... When I hooked up my radio the yellow wire was my 12v pos. it is hooked into my blue sea fuse block. and the black goes into the ground on my fuse block... my red wire I hooked to my key switch... When I turn the key on the radio comes on but only if the cart is in F or R not in N, and I am loosing my presets. is there another place I can hook into for a constant 12V for the presets? maybe the + side of battery number 2? will changing this solve my F&R issue or no?

[sf04txt]

Anybody???

[abamadude]

Do you have a meter? The radio will not keep presets with a voltage reducer unless the reducer is on 24/7. The red wire is hooked to your key switch. What is the voltage on the red wire when the key is on?

[JohnnieB]

It depends on the make and model of the radio, but some use the Yellow wire as a preset keep-alive feature.

My guess is that the radio's Red (+) wire and Black (-) wire should be connected to the + (Fuse) and - (Common) outputs from the voltage reducer which should be turned on and off with the keyswitch (Hopefully the voltage reducer has a remote On/Off wire so you don't have to switch the main power to it.)

The yellow wire on the radio should be connected to a 12V source that stays on all the time. Second battery as mentioned, would work. Or a small 12V battery stashed under the dash. The preset keep alive hardly draws any current, so 8 AAAA batteries in series would last for years.

[sf04txt]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

It depends on the make and model of the radio, but some use the Yellow wire as a preset keep-alive feature.

My guess is that the radio's Red (+) wire and Black (-) wire should be connected to the + (Fuse) and - (Common) outputs from the voltage reducer which should be turned on and off with the keyswitch (Hopefully the voltage reducer has a remote On/Off wire so you don't have to switch the main power to it.)

The yellow wire on the radio should be connected to a 12V source that stays on all the time. Second battery as mentioned, would work. Or a small 12V battery stashed under the dash. The preset keep alive hardly draws any current, so 8 AAAA batteries in series would last for years.

Ok thanks... Yes the reducer has the yellow remote wire for on and off. I think I'll just wire it to the second battery terminal since there is hardly any draw, What would cause everything to cut out when cart is in neutral?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sf04txt

Ok thanks... Yes the reducer has the yellow remote wire for on and off. I think I'll just wire it to the second battery terminal since there is hardly any draw, What would cause everything to cut out when cart is in neutral?

If you wire the voltage reducer's remote on/off wire straight to the battery, the reducer will stay on all the time. Not a good idea. The reducer should be on only when you are using cart. Not necessarily when you are actually driving cart, but not when cart is completely not in use.

It is the radio's preset-keep-alive wire that needs to have 12V on it all the time.

In a series drive cart, the only time there is voltage at the keyswitch is when the F/R selector is in F or R. The keyswitch is the third in a series of four switches whose contacts have to close to energize the solenoid and power-up the controller. Might be for safety reasons or it could be because it take fewer feet of wire or it may be for some other reason, but it is the nature of the beast.

[sf04txt]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If you wire the voltage reducer's remote on/off wire straight to the battery, the reducer will stay on all the time. Not a good idea. The reducer should be on only when you are using cart. Not necessarily when you are actually driving cart, but not when cart is completely not in use.

It is the radio's preset-keep-alive wire that needs to have 12V on it all the time.

In a series drive cart, the only time there is voltage at the keyswitch is when the F/R selector is in F or R. The keyswitch is the third in a series of four switches whose contacts have to close to energize the solenoid and power-up the controller. Might be for safety reasons or it could be because it take fewer feet of wire or it may be for some other reason, but it is the nature of the beast.

I was referring to the wire for the radio's presets... isn't there a way to wire the F&R switch so it has power to the key all the time?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sf04txt

I was referring to the wire for the radio's presets... isn't there a way to wire the F&R switch so it has power to the key all the time?

People have probably done it, but I can't remember anybody mentioned it here at BGW.

Here is a schematic. Looks like if you did some rewiring, you could place the keyswitch before the microswitch (MS-2) on the F/R assembly.

Whatever you do, don't bypass MS-2, that is what prevents the high current contacts in the F/R switch from making/breaking contact while amps are flowing.

I think the easiest way is to install a keyswitch with a "Lights" position clockwise of ON.
Something like this: https://shop.ezgo.com/products/Ignit...roduct_id=1860

[yurtle]

I used two pack batteries for the memory and the other wires to the reducer. I think depending on the radio, the memory wire will backfeed the reducer through the hot (red) wire. One solution would be a relay between the battery pack and reducer. I measured 10 seconds between power off the yellow wire and losing my memory. I never got around to wiring a relay, and ended up killing my reducer, so ended up buying an aux battery, the second solution. I think button batteries would keep the memory alive, but don't know how they'd react to a "recharge", so if you use a separate battery source, use rechargeable batteries.

[sf04txt]

ok guys got the radio in and now its not cutting off when in neutral thanks scootyB.... now I am having static when under load... I have read about the filters and ground loop isolator, which one would be better?