Solenoid testing

glascoec · 04-24-2015, 09:44 PM

I recently installed a new solenoid on my 95 36V ezgo TXT, thinking there was an issue with my old one due to the key switch not working. The cart would run rather the key was turned to off or on, so I installed a new solenoid. Once I installed the solenoid and pushed the peddle down to move the car, I heard a sizzling notice and checked the solenoid and noticed that the diode had cracked, when I pulled the diode off and pulled it apart, I could see the it had melted. I installed a ne diode and now the cart will not move at all. The solenoid is not making a clicking noise when the gas peddle is pushed. I tested the batteries and I am getting 36.9 volts across the battery pack and the same voltage at the controller. Any suggestions?

scottyb · 04-24-2015, 10:29 PM

Installed backwards the diode creates a direct short. In a TXT this usually fries the pedal box micro switch which stops the (+) signal from the key to the solenoid activation.
Lift the floor mat and remove the pedal box cover to access. Welcome to BGW

mgray70 · 04-25-2015, 07:09 AM

The little white ring on the diode goes toward the positive side. I did the same thing one time and it did fry the pedal switch.

glascoec · 04-25-2015, 07:28 AM

Thanks for the input. I pulled the pedal micro switch and I could smell an electrical burn, so I am guessing the switch is my issue. Could there be a chance that this has damaged the solenoid itself also, or the F&R switches. Great info guys. THANKS FOR THE HELP!

scottyb · 04-25-2015, 09:30 AM

No. The pedal box ms acts as a fuse. It burns up instantly and cuts the circuit.
Get a new diode - 1 amp for 36v and 3 amp for 48v

04-24-2015, 09:44 PM	#1
glascoec Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 2	Solenoid testing I recently installed a new solenoid on my 95 36V ezgo TXT, thinking there was an issue with my old one due to the key switch not working. The cart would run rather the key was turned to off or on, so I installed a new solenoid. Once I installed the solenoid and pushed the peddle down to move the car, I heard a sizzling notice and checked the solenoid and noticed that the diode had cracked, when I pulled the diode off and pulled it apart, I could see the it had melted. I installed a ne diode and now the cart will not move at all. The solenoid is not making a clicking noise when the gas peddle is pushed. I tested the batteries and I am getting 36.9 volts across the battery pack and the same voltage at the controller. Any suggestions?
glascoec Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 2

04-24-2015, 10:29 PM	#2
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,410	Re: Solenoid testing Installed backwards the diode creates a direct short. In a TXT this usually fries the pedal box micro switch which stops the (+) signal from the key to the solenoid activation. Lift the floor mat and remove the pedal box cover to access. Welcome to BGW

04-25-2015, 07:28 AM	#4
glascoec Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 2	Re: Solenoid testing Thanks for the input. I pulled the pedal micro switch and I could smell an electrical burn, so I am guessing the switch is my issue. Could there be a chance that this has damaged the solenoid itself also, or the F&R switches. Great info guys. THANKS FOR THE HELP!
glascoec Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 2

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04-25-2015, 07:09 AM	#3
mgray70 Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Deep Run, NC Posts: 2,544	The little white ring on the diode goes toward the positive side. I did the same thing one time and it did fry the pedal switch.