Cart off - pre-charge resistor warm????

[93yellowclubcar]

Originally Posted by Sergio

You have about 200ma of current flowing pass the resistor which is causing the voltage drop.

It is either going into the controller or directly to the motor.

if it is the controller and there is not +48v on terminal #1, meaning the controller should not be active, that means you have a bad capacitor or an FET.

Since You have the FNR in neutral, the Motor A2 is not connected to anything, so a short motor coil should not cause a problem.

I have no voltage whatsoever on terminal 1 or the wire going to it.

Resistor is 10 watt 470 ohm

Unhooked the wire from terminal 1 and the resistor is still real warm and still have voltage across the solenoid.

[scooterman]

Was the f/r switch ever replaced with the conversion?

[93yellowclubcar]

Originally Posted by scooterman

Was the f/r switch ever replaced with the conversion?

Yes, have a HD F/R switch.

[scooterman]

Originally Posted by 93yellowclubcar

I have no voltage whatsoever on terminal 1 or the wire going to it.

Resistor is 10 watt 470 ohm

Unhooked the wire from terminal 1 and the resistor is still real warm and still have voltage across the solenoid.

That is the right resistor, if the controller is the problem, you may need to send it back for repair if it is cost effective to fix. How old is it?

[Sergio]

Once the capacitors are charged, no more current should flow into the controller other than required to maintain the charge, which should be negligible.

It does not appear normal that you need a constant 50ma to keep the caps from self-discharge.

You can try removing power from controller B+ to see if the current is flowing else where in the harness.

[93yellowclubcar]

Originally Posted by scooterman

That is the right resistor, if the controller is the problem, you may need to send it back for repair if it is cost effective to fix. How old is it?

Brand new. I just got it from Scottyb and did completed the install yesterday.

[93yellowclubcar]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Once the capacitors are charged, no more current should flow into the controller other than required to maintain the charge, which should be negligible.

It does not appear normal that you need a constant 50ma to keep the caps from self-discharge.

You can try removing power from controller B+ to see if the current is flowing else where in the harness.

Removed B+ from the controller. (Wire from solenoid to controller) now have 2.1 volts across B- and B+ AND M-

Also, resistor cooled down once the B+ was disconnected.

[Sergio]

That voltage should drop to zero after a little while.

Do you have the controller model with the A2 terminal?

The only other test would be to connect solenoid to B+ but remove the wire from controller B+ to motor and if the pre-charge still gets hot, then it is definitely the controller.

I guess a call to FSIP would confirm how much current they say it is needed to keep the controller capacitors charged.

[scooterman]

Kit is all new from ScottyB, first thing I'd do is call him see if maybe he has suggestions to help.

[93yellowclubcar]

Originally Posted by scooterman

Kit is all new from ScottyB, first thing I'd do is call him see if maybe he has suggestions to help.

Did just that, he gave me a couple things to check and I'm about to go do that.