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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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01-24-2016, 02:36 PM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 526
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New set of batteries
I am going to replace my battery pack. Tired of the bent terminals and issues from previous owner.
The battery cables that were on this cart from previous owner to me looks like they were in bad condition. Some of the ring terminals were broken. Some of the wires from the lights and the charging receptacle had no ring terminals and the wires were just twisted around the post... Anyway... I will follow scottyb break-in tutorial. When getting a new battery set, I would assume the water levels should already be above the plates? Do you need to add water to a new battery set before the initial charge? I am planning on swapping out controller and solenoid after breaking in new batteries. I will also be putting on new cables... Is it necessary to do the cables to the motor now or can I wait to do those after the battery break-in? Also have new cables to battery #1 and battery #6, can I wait to put those on after I break in the batteries? Skip Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk |
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01-24-2016, 03:32 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rio Verde, Az
Posts: 7,125
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Re: New set of batteries
New batteries should have proper levels. Check them though. I would reject them if you can see the plates! Bad cable connections can ruin a battery post. I would put new cables on when you get the new batteries.
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01-24-2016, 04:27 PM | #3 |
Over This Interview Is...
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AZ
Posts: 17,449
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Re: New set of batteries
If you are wanting to eliminate terminal & cable problems, then eliminate the problem cables - all of them.
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01-24-2016, 05:48 PM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 526
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Regarding the cables...
I am going to swap out the cables to the motor. I am a newbie to all this and after reading about the motor cables, that is one thing that worries me. I read if you don't use two wrenches you could make a costly mistake. I am thinking the nut comes off with righty righty lefty loosey....turn it to the left??? Is there some sort of torque inch pounds the nut should go back on? Maybe I am over thinking this. One thing for sure is that with the batteries out of the cart right now, it sure looks a lot easier to access the motor cables. Any advice on the motor bolts and nuts....not sure just how delicate those post are. Asking questions up front helps me from screwing things up. Thx Skip Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk |
01-24-2016, 06:05 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Katy, Tx
Posts: 1,027
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Re: New set of batteries
Just make sure you hold the nut against motor with a wrench while tightening the outer nut. I wont say torque...dont know...just snug so cable doesnt move.
Glad to read you are replacing all cables, just use same gauge. Yes righty tighty lefty loosey! |
01-24-2016, 06:14 PM | #6 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 526
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I am putting 2 Awg on all connections
I have a DCS and there are 2 motor cables I understand that need to be replaced. There others on the batteries and controller looked to be pretty straightforward. Skip Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk |
01-25-2016, 09:04 AM | #7 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: New set of batteries
FWIW:
There is a total of 10 high current cables on DCS and PDS carts, all 10 should a minimum of 4Ga minimum for 400A or smaller controllers and 2Ga or thicker for 500A controllers and above. If in good electrical and physical condition, the original 10Ga wires going to F1 and F2 do not have to be replaced. (Check for worn insulation where these cables are routed around battery box frame.) Warning: The torque specs for motor studs and battery studs are in INCH-POUNDS. Motor studs: 66 in/lb (Use brass nuts and washers on brass studs) Battery studs: 95 in/lb to 105 in/lb. |
01-25-2016, 09:49 AM | #8 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: New set of batteries
If you don't have an inch pound wrench use common sense. These connections need only be tightened until secure. The object it to provide and insure a solid connection. Tighten until the the 2 nuts and cable lug are sandwiched together and the lug no longer moves, then torque a very small amount (1/16 turn) to insure no vibration will loosen the nut.
If you have to reposition your body and get your hands on the ends of the wrenches then you are probably torquing too much which will deform the stud threads and lead to failure. Electrical connections only need to be snug and secure. Save the hee-man stuff for the lug nuts |
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