Because Tall Wet Grass

[Stian222]

So I was riding around in some tall and very wet grass yesterday and on the way home my stock 2010 DS died on me. I will attach a picture of the faults but a couple things on it were a pre-existing condition. HPD, Main Dropout and Low Battery Voltage were already in the history. So the new faults are Motor Stall and Field Missing.
Let me quickly descibe the trouble that I had been ignoring for days because it may have some bearing on this case. After driving about a mile or so the motor would brake but not usually to a full stop. I let up on peddle and it gets going only to motor break again every few hundred feet. I thought maybe it was a faulty micro switch and was planning on tracking down the problem but now I have a bigger fish which I think I am going to have to fry first.
BTW, this is my first post. I didn't really need to attach a pic when I just discribed what it says above. I guess I'm in the mood for testing how this submission thing works. Don't know why the image ended up sideways. Oh well. Safe weekend and Thanks in advance for any help. 🍻

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/test-...tion-test.html

this happened while driving through tall wet grass ??

missing field is a common controller failure code

..........
Welcome to BGW

[Stian222]

Thanks CTD! Yeah, I had a feeling I blew the controller. And no, I was out of the tall very wet grass and on a paved road when it happened. I just assumed it had something to do with the wetness slapping around the undercarriage. That didn't sound G rated at all. ��
Cheers

[Stian222]

So I talked to Larry from 'Speed Code 5' / Gaminde.net yesterday. He thinks I may have fried my motor. Today I removed the battery last cables, then removed all the cables from the motor and ran a check. First I made sure that there was no readings across the letters (F's to A's & vise versa) then checked all posts against the frame. All good so far. Then I took a reading from F1 to F2 and got 2 Ohms. That sounds right but A1 to A2 reads .3 Ohms when it settles. Does that mean my motor is fried? I assumed that it needs to be reading the same as the F's. Cheers!

Originally Posted by Stian222

then checked all posts against the frame.

there should never be any wiring to the frame on an electric cart

JACK UP CART AND PLACE ON JACK STANDS FOR ANY TESTING

Originally Posted by rib33024

To test run a Sep-Ex (regen) motor

Remove all cables from the motor; connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 to 24 volts, positive @ A1/F1 and negative @ A2/F2. Swap F1 and F2 to change rotation direction.

NOTE: some Sep-Ex motors are labeled S1 & S2 in place of F1 & F2

CAUTION:

Allowing a motor to spin @ high RPM can cause catastrophic failure!

Put vehicle in TOW mode before attempting testing process if vehicle has TOW switch . . .

[Twincam47]

I think he mean't the motor case or used the frame to determine if the post insulators had failed?

Originally Posted by Twincam47

I think he mean't the motor case or used the frame to determine if the post insulators had failed?

ok that's better...

[Cruise Master]

The attachment is from the EV drives website. Pretty simple stuff once it's presented in such a logical format. All you're doing is looking for an internal short or break.

[Stian222]

Thanks for the link Cruise Master! Cheers

[Stian222]

So to wrap this thing up, I now know what was at the bottom of all my troubles. Please see attached pics and notice the busted pieces that were floating around in there. Moral of the story is that if your whip starts acting weird like I described up top it could be some copper bits of your motor are free ranging it on the inside. Cheers all!