1995 Medalist? (series motor)

[70oldsracer]

Unfortunately it got too dark too fast when I got home. I'll have to start checking again in the morning. JonnieB, I don't know if you saw the pic of how I'm getting power from the three 12 volt batteries. I have a 10 gauge wire attached to the cart's 6 gauge wires from the bike on both the B+ and B-. I know I have to be loosing amps through there, but I can't figure out any other way of doing it.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by 70oldsracer

Unfortunately it got too dark too fast when I got home. I'll have to start checking again in the morning. JonnieB, I don't know if you saw the pic of how I'm getting power from the three 12 volt batteries. I have a 10 gauge wire attached to the cart's 6 gauge wires from the bike on both the B+ and B-. I know I have to be loosing amps through there, but I can't figure out any other way of doing it.

I saw that, and that was why I asked what the voltage at the batteries was dropping to.

If the voltage at the batteries is staying up, you need to come up with a better way to connect the bike batteries to the cart. If the battery voltage is dropping, a higher AH battery pack is needed to test cart.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I saw that, and that was why I asked what the voltage at the batteries was dropping to.

If the voltage at the batteries is staying up, you need to come up with a better way to connect the bike batteries to the cart. If the battery voltage is dropping, a higher AH battery pack is needed to test cart.

Unfortunately, I think the low AH battery pack is going to be the problem. I'll know for sure in the morning. I'm not even 100% sure what condition these batteries are in. I should really just bite the bullet and get the correct batteries and see what happens. Thanks for all your help. I'll be back on late morning. Taking the 442 out for a ride in the morning with my son.

[Sideways]

Connect a 12v automotive battery charger to the battery pack your using to add a little more voltage to the pack.
I started with the 6v med setting when I tested everything during my rebuild..
I ended up putting the charger in the cart and used a long extension cord to move the cart around before I bought my new batteries.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by Sideways

Connect a 12v automotive battery charger to the battery pack your using to add a little more voltage to the pack.
I started with the 6v med setting when I tested everything during my rebuild..
I ended up putting the charger in the cart and used a long extension cord to move the cart around before I bought my new batteries.

Sounds like a good idea, but I'm not sure my charger has a 6 volt setting. I think it only has 12 volts slow, 12 volts fast and boost (jump start function). I'll have to take a look.

Thanks.

[70oldsracer]

Okay, I finally had some time to work on the cart. I connected the 36 volt 12AH batteries again, but this time I had the red lead on the battery. Battery pack was showing 40 volts, but as soon as I turned the key on, the voltage went down to 38 and change. Once I pushed down on the throttle, the voltage went down to 20 volts. The solenoid is still clicking as soon as I turn the key on. I tried lifting up the pedal, but no luck. I really need some car batteries to see if this cart works. Where can I buy a new throttle switch?

Thanks,

Frank

[70oldsracer]

https://www.amazon.com/Accelerator-M...7-1A38E9-201-2

Is this the proper throttle micro switch for my cart?

[kernal]

This one: https://shop.txtsv.com/micro-switch-...ox-series-cars according to EZGO.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by kernal

This one: https://shop.txtsv.com/micro-switch-...ox-series-cars according to EZGO.

Thanks, you are right, that other one is not for a series motor. Thanks for catching that.

[70oldsracer]

Okay, I just pulled the switch out and that number in the link I was given is correct. looking at the pic, I not sure the adjusting arm should be contact with the micro switch with the throttle at rest. Like I was previously told in this thread, this is probably why the solenoid is clicking as soon as I turn the key on. Not to mention, the switch doesn't even click when it's pressed, so I'm guessing it's stuck open. I did a continuity test on the switch and it's always showing continuity. the switch is definitely broken. I'm ordering a new switch and I'll see what happens. Thanks for all the help.

Frank