SW202 and reverse buzzer

[orangeman6]

Borderline irresponsible of me, but have had the SW202 for awhile and never hooked up the reverse buzzer. Finally decided I better put one back in, but didn’t want the obnoxious buzzer, so got a programmable 12v speaker that scottyb sent me a link to.

Wired it up with a 48v coil relay switching 12v from the reducer. I got the 48v to the relay coil from the f/r switch of the sw202. I didn’t think about the fact that the f/r switch has no power until the pedal micro switch engages. This is fine for me, as I know which way is reverse on the switch. However, the switch is mounted upside down where the old fr rotary handle was located. Anyone not familiar with the cart won’t know they’re in reverse until the pedal engages. To me, the reverse switch is not only to let others know you’re backing up, but also for the driver to know which way they’re about to go. I’d like to have the buzzer come on as soon as the key is on and reverse is selected, like it is from the factory.

I installed the switch according to the attached sheet that came with it. As you can see on the diagram, the f/r switch has no power until after the pedal micro switch. At least the way I interpreted it, anyway. I don’t see a reason why I couldn’t tap pack voltage after the key switch and before the pedal switch, but wanted to check here before I did in case I’m missing something. I’ve emailed Scotty, but he’s out of the office hopefully enjoying his Sunday.

[Sergio]

Is the FNR switch DPDT?

If it is You can use the other set of poles to turn the reverse buzzer ON, just wire the center terminal on that pole to the key switch and power the 48v relay from the reverse side position.

The only possible issue with wiring the Contactor Coils directly from the Key Switch like you suggested is the heat generated at the coils if the Cart is Left ON for an extended period of time.

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Is the FNR switch DPDT?

If it is You can use the other set of poles to turn the reverse buzzer ON, just wire the center terminal on that pole to the key switch and power the 48v relay from the reverse side position.

The only possible issue with wiring the Contactor Coils directly from the Key Switch like you suggested is the heat generated at the coils if the Cart is Left ON for an extended period of time.

Sergio,

One of the install sheets talked about a SPDT switch, but I think it’s a DPDT. I had to look up the definitions, but I think that’s what it is. The switch I have is on/off/on (or F/N/R) and has two rows of three pins for a total of 6. The rows are not connected to each other unless a jumper is used.

What you’re saying makes sense the way I know this switch to work. I currently have a jumper connecting both center pins. I’ll remove that jumper and leave the top row as is, so that the contactor isn’t activated without the pedal micro switch engaged. I’ll get key switch power before the pedal switch to the center pin on the bottom row, then connect the relay coil to the the pin on the bottom row that is energized when R is selected.

[Sergio]

Keep in mind the center terminal connects to the terminal opposite the side of the switched pressed.

Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like you are using 1/2 of each side/row/pole, if that is the case just make sure the positive wires that go to the contactors are all of the same 3 terminal row.

You can then wire the other side/row/pole center terminal to the key switch and use it to power the buzzer's relay.

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Keep in mind the center terminal connects to the terminal opposite the side of the switched pressed.

Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like you are using 1/2 of each side/row/pole, if that is the case just make sure the positive wires that go to the contactors are all of the same 3 terminal row.

You can then wire the other side/row/pole center terminal to the key switch and use it to power the buzzer's relay.

It is hard to tell from the pic. That was about the best view I could get. Top row: left pin has the power to reverse side of contactor. Center pin has power from pedal micro switch and jumper to bottom row. Right pin has power to forward side of contactor. Bottom row: left pin has out to 1/2 speed reverse on controller and power to relay for buzzer.

And, yes, I remember when I originally installed it being surprised at the switch being opposite of how you would think it works by looking at it. But Scotty had a note on the original install sheet.

Thanks again, I think I’ve got a good plan now that will get the buzzer on when I want it and not unnecessarily activate the contactor. I’ll remove the jumper to the bottom row and get key switch power to the center pin instead of the jumper.

[orangeman6]

Sergio, wanted to report back that I wired it up just as you suggested and it all works great. And a thanks to Scotty for the link to the programmable speaker. I’ve now got a good setup that lets the driver know they’re in reverse, and anyone around them, without being completely obnoxious like the old buzzer.

[scottyb]

Sorry to be in a hurry (didn't read it all) but did you guys settle on 2 separate feeds for the 2 halves of the switch ? So no danger of leaving the coils activated while parked still a constant hot for the buzzer side?

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Sorry to be in a hurry (didn't read it all) but did you guys settle on 2 separate feeds for the 2 halves of the switch ? So no danger of leaving the coils activated while parked still a constant hot for the buzzer side?

[scottyb]

Best of both worlds.
Sergio - You are the best help.