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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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12-19-2018, 08:41 AM | #41 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Independence, LA
Posts: 216
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Re: Another ezgo ign switch question
Quote:
So if my assumptions are correct you should hook the meter to B and I as in the diagram but the 12v accessories would be hooked to L. |
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12-19-2018, 08:49 AM | #42 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: Another ezgo ign switch question
Ezgo drew 12v from two 6v batteries for their key light switch. If the lights were used very much the pack would become unbalanced and thus shortening the useful life of the pack. Ideally the 12v feed for the switch would come from a voltage reducer drawing evenly across the pack.
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12-19-2018, 12:40 PM | #43 | |
Gone Insane
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 14,214
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Re: Another ezgo ign switch question
Quote:
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12-20-2018, 12:59 AM | #44 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 16
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Re: Another ezgo ign switch question
The lighting kit that my son in law purchased had the poorest templates and no amperage (load) information, but it is all LED lighting, (except for the horn). I have not taken the time to measure the amperage draw of the entire kit with the horn blaring, all the lights burning and etc, but I plan to. The instructions said to use 2 of the 6 batteries for the 12 Vdc to operate the kit, but with the good advice I got from you all I ordered a voltage reducer (36 to 12vdc 10 amp rated. I planned on feeding it directly with full pack voltage with a inline fuse rated 10 amps, and I would use the push pull " light switch" that came with the kit to control the lights, but the light switch did not shut off the power to the brake lights, so I know that one of the first things you do when you get off of a golf cart is apply the emergency brake and I saw no way to stop the brake lights from burning all the time other than running the feed to the reducer through B1 and L on the new ignition switch. The reason I ran the digital volt meter from the L post is because it lights up and when someone is finished using the cart and the go to get off and they see that the voltmeter is still lit up, they will know that the forgot to turn the ign/light switch off. I have a inline fuse (10 amp) in the power going to B1 so the amps going through the switch contacts should never be enough to damage them? However the new switch I purchased does not have an amp rating on it, so 10 amps might be to much? I took the cart out for a quick spin just before dark this evening and I did notice with all the lights flashing, the beacon running and me applying the emergency brake which like it was suspose to do lit up the brake lights, but in the short time it took for me to close the garage door the brake lights were off. My first thought was I had a fuse blown, but then I noticed that every thing else was still lit up, so now I am thinking that when you apply the emergency brake for a period of time the lights time out and shut off, so I probably did not need to run the power for the voltage reducer/lights through the switch? I might just go ahead and install a relay that will be controlled by the B1/ L contact on the switch and not take a chance on damaging the switch with execesive current.
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12-21-2018, 08:42 PM | #45 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 16
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Re: Another ezgo ign switch question
I decided to no longer just guess at how much current was flowing through the B1 and L contacts on my new switch, so I got out my Radio Shack digital Volt ohm meter and used the maximum 10 amp DC plug in function, auto range and disconnected the neg wire on the power circuit connected to B1 and then turned on all the LED lights on my new light kit, turned on my LED beacon, put my foot on the brake, and blew the horn, and made sure my digital volt meter, and the maximum reading I ever saw was .750 amps, or 750 ma. I have switched quite a few flood lights and other older lighting units at my church and most if my lights here at home over to LED over the past 2 or 3 years, so I knew that they used far less current than incandescent, metal halide and even compact fluorescent, but this is a lower number than I expected. So to review, I ran a direct pack voltage circuit to the B1 contact, that contact along with the L contact is for lights or other accessories. To L' I connected the digital volt meter, the LED rotating beacon and the 36 Vdc to 12 Vdc voltage reducer ( the cart lighting kit is hooked to this) and the total current draw is less than one amp. With the battery pack being about 4 years old, anytime I can reduce the load on that pack will equate to better performance.
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12-25-2018, 11:18 PM | #46 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 16
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Re: Another ezgo ign switch question
Just wanted to thank everyone for all the help you have given me since I have been adding the LED light kit/ horn/ voltage reducer/ new 4 pin ignition/ light or accessories switch and the LED rotating beacon. Some of the help I received was reading other people's questions and all the good answers about properly charging the battery and other things. All this is on my youngest daughter and her husbands recently acquired 2007 TXT 36volt electric. I also added a driver side, passenger side and a center rear view mirror. I plan on installing a rear seat/ platform before summer, but my kids, (daughter and son in law) are anxious to drive it awhile.
Merry Christmas to all of you, and I hope all of you got to celebrate the birth of our Lord and savior Jesus Christ with all your family and friends as I did! |
12-25-2018, 11:26 PM | #47 |
Gone Insane
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 14,214
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Re: Another ezgo ign switch question
Merry Christmas!
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