96' Ezgo TXT 12v Reducer Switch Wire Help!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JakeJones8

The cart currently has a 2 prong ignition switch (like the right side of the picture) with has the 36v in and out. However, because the power is going through the ignition AFTER the F/R switch (standard wiring) anything that is currently tapped into the ignition (ex. battery meter) gets quick shut off and on when the cart switches from F to R (because while the cart is in N nothing is touching on the F/R switch and the current is disconnected). HOWEVER, if you agree with my crappy picture I drew, this can all be fixed by switching to a 4 prong ignition because "B1" would be getting its 36v directly from the battery and not the F/R switch like "I" so it wont cycle on and off!

Gotcha. I had to reread your first post. I thought you already had a 3 position switch. My bad. I told you how mine's wired, first position = off, second position = run, third position = run + accessories.

I bought a uniquely keyed three position switch. No generic key to steal mine with.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by JakeJones8

Sergio, splicing these wires together would mean someone could put my cart in "F" and drive off, no key needed?

No it would not since without the Key ON there would be no power to the original harness circuit, that is what the 16ga wire from the key switch that goes to the charger receptacle does.

You are basically removing the key switch from the middle of the circuit (dumb location in my view) and putting it on the beginning of the circuit (by the charger socket) where it should have always been.

It does not affect the FNR neutral position killing power or the charger plug reed switch disabling the cart.

[JakeJones8]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Gotcha. I had to reread your first post. I thought you already had a 3 position switch. My bad. I told you how mine's wired, first position = off, second position = run, third position = run + accessories.

I bought a uniquely keyed three position switch. No generic key to steal mine with.

Thanks Yurtle for your help, this is the way I am going to do mine then. Ordering the new ignition now. I think my main confusion was "position 3" had to be 12v but it sounds like you ran 36v directly from the battery and haven't gone up in flames yet so sounds good to me. If my cart burns down I know where to find you!

[JakeJones8]

Originally Posted by Sergio

No it would not since without the Key ON there would be no power to the original harness circuit, that is what the 16ga wire from the key switch that goes to the charger receptacle does.

You are basically removing the key switch from the middle of the circuit (dumb location in my view) and putting it on the beginning of the circuit (by the charger socket) where it should have always been.

It does not affect the FNR neutral position killing power or the charger plug reed switch disabling the cart.

Ahhh I see what you meant now. One would think the key should be step one in the circuit but apparently EZGO had other ideas. Appreciate yall's help!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I am surprised You guys don't have a sticky about how to make the key switch on those EzGo work the way one would expect.

When I looked at the diagram one time it seems like a very straight forward modification.

Disconnect the two existing wires from the key switch and splice them together.

Run a new 14ga from pack positive (or another constant power source) to the key switch and connect to one side. That becomes Your "Hot Side" or "Always ON".

Run a 16ga wire from the other side of the key switch to the charger socket and either connect directly to the skinny wire (20ga?) from the harness or if You still use the reed switch, disconnect the reed switch from the radsock and connect that wire to the 16ga wire you ran from the key switch.

The key switch now still powers the Cart with interlock and the FNR still disables the cart in Neutral, but you also have a more robust Key Switch 'cold side' that powers other devices with out interruption.

Yeah, this makes way too much sense.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JakeJones8

Ahhh I see what you meant now. One would think the key should be step one in the circuit but apparently EZGO had other ideas. Appreciate yall's help!

Or step two, if you keep the reed switch. They probably work fine on a gentle golf course, but not so much when trying to get all four tires off the ground. I've always wanted to mount one of my limit switches to the charger port, but never got around to it. I have spare microswitches that would get more use annually than the charger port would. Guess someone thought magnets and glass switches were the way to go. FNR cam MSs and throttle MSs seem to work fine.

EDIT:

OP,

In hindsight, I'd be just as happy with a two position switch. I was buying a uniquely keyed switch anyway, but after using it for years, I really don't need three positions. Run w/o accessories is not necessary.

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by JakeJones8

My apologies if my questions were confusing, but I assure you I know what I am doing. This is my 8th rebuild but first EZGO and this F/R/N connection thing is abnormal because using the standard ignition isn't an option like all my other builds.


Sir Nuke - I am assuming you put the switch on your switch-on wire and not the 36v+ wire? If I end up going this route and put a switch on the tan wire (switch wire) between the pack and the reducer, what should it be rated. Is 2a 36VDC enough?

Thanks guys!

NO.....I got one of Scott's 12v reducers and the input can be anywhere up to 60v's so as I said, I wired it directly across the pack....and on the POSITIVE side I put a toggle switch.....so that I can power up the converter at the flip of the switch, and the trigger wire goes to the same connection on the toggle switch, so when I power it up, it supplies power to my entire fuse box and all my accessories.

[JakeJones8]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

NO.....I got one of Scott's 12v reducers and the input can be anywhere up to 60v's so as I said, I wired it directly across the pack....and on the POSITIVE side I put a toggle switch.....so that I can power up the converter at the flip of the switch, and the trigger wire goes to the same connection on the toggle switch, so when I power it up, it supplies power to my entire fuse box and all my accessories.

Gotcha, so instead of running two 36v wires from the pack you just tied them together and put the switch there...smart. I guess my only question is little accessory switches are usually only made for 12v low amp draw. How beefy of a switch did you you have to get to handle the whole pack? Thanks!

[yurtle]

Most small switches will easily handle 48 volts. Amperage is the main limiting factor, until you get into higher amps and voltage.

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by JakeJones8

Gotcha, so instead of running two 36v wires from the pack you just tied them together and put the switch there...smart. I guess my only question is little accessory switches are usually only made for 12v low amp draw. How beefy of a switch did you you have to get to handle the whole pack? Thanks!

Originally Posted by yurtle

Most small switches will easily handle 48 volts. Amperage is the main limiting factor, until you get into higher amps and voltage.

^^^ what he said.....and if you have any real concern, you can get toggle switches at auto parts stores like auto zone and o'reiley's that will go to 50 amps.

my 30 amp (max) reducer only has a radio, the lights, and a horn on it....so I just put a regular toggle switch in line....never been an issue considering how little I have flowing through it.