Ez go won't move

[Corncheeto16]

Gotcha ! Thanks for the info ill post back if I find the solution 👍

[Corncheeto16]

Why would there be voltage at both small terminals if one of the small terminals is hooked up to b- which is also hooked to battery pack negative ?
Shouldn't there only be voltage on side with the red wires ? I would think if voltage was present on the negative side it would short the batteries or the controller

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Corncheeto16

Why would there be voltage at both small terminals if one of the small terminals is hooked up to b- which is also hooked to battery pack negative ?
Shouldn't there only be voltage on side with the red wires ? I would think if voltage was present on the negative side it would short the batteries or the controller

You are right, I forgot it was a stock series drive.

With sepex drives the controller connects B- to the solenoid coil when the pedal is pushed and you get voltage on both sides before it is pushed. Same with some aftermarket series drive controllers also.

With a stock series controller, one side of the solenoid coil is always connected to B- and the pedal switch is the last switch that has to be closed to get B+ to the other side of the solenoid coil.


BTW: If the was voltage on both sides, the wire from the solenoid coil to the controllers B- terminal would be open.

[Corncheeto16]

So I fried my pedal micro switch by putting my diode on the solenoid backwarda. Anyhow I went ahead and replaced my pedal micro switch , ITS sensor , solenoid , and diode. Its all installed but before I hook my pack back up to test it I want to make sure my micro switches on my direction selector were good so I tested for contenuity with my dvm. The reverse micro switch closes as it should when the cart is in reverse but what I don't understand is my forward micro switch stay closed constantly no matter if it's in forward or reverse. I can use my finger and pull up to make the switch click.or (open). But the rotory "puck" isn't pushing the switch up to open it .

Is this normal ?

[kgsc]

That is the Run switch and that is normal.

[Corncheeto16]

Ok so I hooked up my pack and followed the steps in the tech manual. My solenoid is clicking when pedal is pressed in forward direction. No voltage between b+ and m-..so I says go to step 16. Reading between b- and red wire going into 4 pin connector on the controller side ( connector leading to pedal box ) full pack voltage is present on both sides of this plug on the red wire all the way to the micro switch in the pedal box. The tech manual says to correct red wire if pack voltage is present. I don't understand ? This red wire goes straight to the positive small terminal of my solenoid. Exactly how the wiring schematic says that wire is supposed to be routed.

I have added screen shots of the steps I'm talking about

[JohnnieB]

Looks like EZGO's proof reader wasn't the sharpest pencil in the drawer, it should have sent you to step 23 to check the ITS. The steps shown in the parenthesis below the screw-up are correct.

The are several errors in EZGO manuals.

[Corncheeto16]

Well I really appreciate all yalls help. My diagnostics have lead straight to the controller being bad. Too much voltage coming from pin 2 on controller (black wire )

I have this cart down to the frame with no body for restoration purposes. Would it be better to get the PDS system and harness or a better controller or just stick with the 1206 Curtis stock controller ?

[JohnnieB]

Depends on what you plan to use the cart for. For off road, hunting and hauling/pulling stuff, stick with a series drive. For cruising the neighborhood, go with a sepex drive.

[Corncheeto16]

Can I upgrade to a PDS system to get rid of that giant forward and reverse switch but still have my stock series motor on a 400 amp alltrax controller ?