Upgraded to 48v lithium; confused about blue wire, black/white wire for accessories

[WC53]

Man you have run through the testing! Your meter running through the canbus should be accurate. I can’t imagine they would have cheaped out and made it voltage vs amp hours (okay I can) .
Only thing left I could think of is to try just one battery hooked up at a time and watch the measurements to see if they vary between the pair. You eliminated the charge voltage settling by testing at 65% SOC.
Does the meter show stats for individual batteries?

[enfantterrible]

Originally Posted by Pat911

Hi,

Try leaving it in drive with reducer connected for a few days and see if the SOC draw tapers off.

0.169A is a little high for my liking anyhow. You could use a relay to disconnect the input to the reducer when the key is off, that would halve your idle power consumption. When leaving for long periods simply put it into tow mode. 0.004A is extremely low.

Cheers
Pat.

I'll do that. I just installed a 48v boat switch that can completely kill the connection to the reducer (it's under the seat, not in the dash), as well as put an extremely lower amperage status light on the dashboard that's connected to the always-on 12v positive output. That way, I can tell at a glance if there is power running to the unit (the key switch setup only turns off the output from the reducer to the main 12v positive). I thought about using a relay and putting a switch on the dash, but my setup is getting pretty complicated.

[enfantterrible]

Originally Posted by WC53

Man you have run through the testing! Your meter running through the canbus should be accurate. I can’t imagine they would have cheaped out and made it voltage vs amp hours (okay I can) .
Only thing left I could think of is to try just one battery hooked up at a time and watch the measurements to see if they vary between the pair. You eliminated the charge voltage settling by testing at 65% SOC.
Does the meter show stats for individual batteries?

That's a good idea. I'll do that. Thank you.

[Pat911]

Make sure the batteries are at a similar SOC when you reconnect them or you will get extremely high currents flowing between them until they equalise.

Cheers
Pat.

[LouBinWNC]

Did you ever figure this out ?? Was ReLion ever engaged ??

I am at the beginning of the ReLion journey with my 2017, batteries in and working but accessories (light kit) not. Pretty much what you describe.

ReLion has suggested the same 48v reducer, and I have yet to find a 16v-12. And not sure how it is wired in my dash if it is there.

I’m was going to start a thread in the lithium subgroup but this thread seems relevant too.

[enfantterrible]

Originally Posted by LouBinWNC

Did you ever figure this out ?? Was ReLion ever engaged ??

I am at the beginning of the ReLion journey with my 2017, batteries in and working but accessories (light kit) not. Pretty much what you describe.

ReLion has suggested the same 48v reducer, and I have yet to find a 16v-12. And not sure how it is wired in my dash if it is there.

I’m was going to start a thread in the lithium subgroup but this thread seems relevant too.

Yes, I got all of this done. Happy to help you in turn. Ask away!

In terms of the batteries draining, I have a master list of all the draws and I'm now comfortable that there's nothing wrong with them.

[LouBinWNC]

Originally Posted by enfantterrible

Yes, I got all of this done. Happy to help you in turn. Ask away!

In terms of the batteries draining, I have a master list of all the draws and I'm now comfortable that there's nothing wrong with them.

So you think it is the fuel gauge miss reporting ??

Thanks.. my wiring is confusing me as I see no T etc for any voltage reducer so I guess the light I have could operate at 16v