Pre-charge resistor burning 2000.5 DS

[Klyons]

With the key off and cart in neutral the pre-charge resistor burns hot enough to melt the plastic sleeve. I have read all the post I can find on this but with the other post the cart will not work mine works normal, forward and reverse. Going to list what I have checked.

Resistor removed everything connected
Solenoid works
Forward works
Reverse works
Charging works

Motor
Cables disconnected
A1 to A2 continuity
S1 to S2 continuity
A1 to S2 no continuity
S1 to A2 no continuity
A1 to case no continuity
S1 to case no continuity

With everything hooked back up but reconnecting negative after disconnecting each thing and feeling the resistor to see if it heats up. Resistor still heats up with each of these disconnected
Key switch
Red and green cable from controller
Small yellow cable from controller
All micro switches on the FNR
OBC connector
potentiometer

As soon as it stops raining I’m going to pull the controller and open it up and see if anything looks blown or shorted.

Any other suggestions on things to try.

[Fairtax4me]

This is a series cart? Big lever for FnR?
Normally the Pcr burning is a sign of a failure in the controller. Most of the time this happens on Sepex carts the controller fails and no longer functions, but the series controllers work entirely differently and can still work even if one of the capacitors inside fails.
The check here would be to unbolt and remove the A1 cable (green) from the controller, isolate it and tape the end so it can’t touch anything, Reconnect the pack negative and see if the resistor still heats. If it does the problem is in the controller.

[Scott quail]

Typically when you are melting a resistor its due to a failed controller, wires connected wrong at the controller or the motor is shorted. Its weird that everything works still. Im puzzled and cant wait to see this outcome.

[Klyons]

Thank you for the responses. Pulled the green motor wire resistor still heating up. Went ahead and pulled the controller took a minute but I got it opened up. Was hoping I would find a bulging capacitor or two or a blown FET instead it looks like a capacitor went thermonuclear in there and leaked out some liquid and started corroding a lot of stuff inside. The controller is a Curtis 1204-410 225amp the cart does have an upgraded motor not sure what the exact model is because half the sticker is missing but it’s big and blue. Should I replace with the same controller or go for something a little more beefy?

[Fairtax4me]

If it’s blue it might be a D&D, and probably is some kind of upgrade over stock. Are there any kind of numbers visible on what’s left of the sticker?

[Klyons]

This was my dads old farm cart and I found a picture of the motor from when I was helping him work on it. It is a d&d model 170-001-0002 9.4 hp 48 volt

[Fairtax4me]

Wow! Yeah that’s a hoss of a motor. Put a 500A controller on it and that thing will do wheelies.

Maybe not literally, but a 500 will definitely wake that motor up.
Probably going to want at least 4ga battery and motor cables as well if it doesn’t already have them. Then your weak point will probably be the FnR switch.