Marathon all go no slow

[paulss]

I bought a 93 marathon and was told the microswitch was bad. When you hit the accelerator it would only go wide open. A new switch was given to me when I picked it up and I installed it today. Seemed fairly simple - 2 screws to take it off and 2 connections to hook up. I'm sure it's hooked up just as it came off.

Luckily I had it pointed toward the pasture cause when I hit the switch (it has an on/off switch instead of a key) it took off like a bat out of hell without me even touching the accelerator. It does the same in reverse. At least before it would either be all on or all off as controlled by the accelerator. Now the accelerator has no affect on it.

Any ideas or is this one of those "too good to be true" deals I always other poor souls talking about?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[JohnnieB]

Two problems.
1. Wide open all the time.
2. Throttle microswitch no longer controlling solenoid activation.

Lets deal with #2 first.
Changing the microswitch on the throttle assembly won't fix Problem #1. (You were given some bad information.)
The contacts in that microswitch along with contacts in the key switch and a microswitch on the F/R assemble have to be closed for the solenoid to activate.
For some reason, the contacts in the replacement throttle microswitch are staying closed. (Wrong type, miswired or maladjusted)
Placing F/R in neutral rather than F or R will open the Solenoid activation circuit the same as the key switch does.

With only two wires, it would be difficult to miswire, so I suspect it it the wrong type or isn't adjusted right.
The two terminals should be labeled "C" and "NC". If they are "C' and "NO" it is the wrong type and won't work in this application.
When the throttle pedal is up, the NC contacts should be open.
Take the wires off and use an Ohmmeter while you adjust whatever is pushing the lever arm on the microswitch, or the position of the microswitch.

For troubleshooting #1, need to know if it is a Resistor or a Controller cart.

[paulss]

Johnny,

I'm assuming it's a resistor. The solenoid and microswitch are in the middle between the batteries and I don't see anything that looks like a controller like the one on my PDS.

Do you think the original microswitch was bad or should I just reinstall it.

Sorry for the confusion but I'm completely unfamiliar with the Marathon and this one appears to have been "engineered" quite a bit.

Thanks,

Paul

[scottyb]

Paul it is very important we know which drive system you have. 1992 should have been a controller cart.
Can you post pics of the stuff between the batteries? One pic that shows all the batts will do.

[paulss]

Thanks, Scotty.

I'll get a picture as soon as I get out there again.

Paul

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by paulss

..........Do you think the original microswitch was bad or should I just reinstall it..............

From the way you described how the cart was acting originally, I'm pretty sure the original microswitch was doing its job. That being the last link in the chain of switches that energized the solenoid.
So it is probably good, but I'd probably replace it since it is a high failure item.
Fortunately, when they do fail, the cart simply doesn't run.

[paulss]

I finally got a chance to take some pictures. As you can see (hopefully), there has been a lot of "engineering" done to this cart and there are cut/attached wires. the thing is I don't see anything that looks like a controller or resistors. Where would they be located?

Thanks for all your help.

[JohnnieB]

Try stepping back a few feet.
Need to see all six batteries, F/R switch and motor in same picture.

[paulss]

Hopefully these are better.

Thanks

[fishb8]

I am far from an expert, but that seems to be missing a few parts. I'm not familiar with a resistor cart, but I don't see what I would expect to be one. And I surely don't see a controller.

Any one else?




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