Very little power after about 10 to 15 feet.

[BearsFan315]

I believe that is the bright neon yellow tube in my picture, comes from carb then runs to frame where it is secured.

[unknwn]

Pull that hose off at the carb. and see if the problem retreats. If so, blow into the tube it should be free flowing. Otherwise, the passage through the carburetor body would need to be checked and that would require removal of the float bowl to see if air flows freely from the outside of that nipple (it wouldn't with the float bowl in place).
-Before- removing the float bowl use the drain screw and a small vessel to capture to drained fuel to inspect for water in the fuel coming from the float bowl. Water in the fuel there would indicate water in your fuel tank which can cause these sort of mystery engine operating problems.
While the float bowl is off, remove the air intake pipe and watch through the venturi/carb. throat while squirting carb. or brake cleaner through the main and low speed jets using the fine red straw that is included on the can. should be able to see liquid/droplets expelled into to carb.throat.
A mechanical type could possibly remove jets/emulsion tube to inspect & clean the carburetor while it is still mounted, but a layman would almost certainly need to remove the carb to inspect & clean properly without damaging something.
Doing that (removal & overhaul) would more than likely require a trip to a dealership to get the gaskets on either side of the carb and between the extension and the head.
Another thing to check for is unimpeded air delivery. Pull the lid off the airbox & remove the filter to prove that something isn't plugged up and artificially choking the intake system. You CAN run it for a -short- time like this, but don't press that envelope because engine damage can occur from dirt ingestion and/or lean fuel-air mix. Just diagnostic mind you.
Malfunction of the choke mechanism of the airbox could accidentally choke the intake & cause similar problems also.

[Done Deal]

You guys are giving me some great things to check,THANKS!! I do have a hose coming out of the top of the carb,it leads to the side of the valve cover. Is that the hose you are talking about? I will keep looking using your ideas. Thanks for all the help!

[Done Deal]

I looked better at Bears picture. You`ll made me put my shoots on and go to the garage. The vent hose was not connected. I saw it a few days ago and did not know where it went. it is clamped back in place. It did not help the problem. I talked to a friend at a kart shop Friday. I can feel air coming out on the back side of the carb area from the motor. I can here a hissing sound,when the engine is running. After I told him that he mentioned a gasket that can go that would make air come out in that area. I am not thinking it is fuel related,I had two mechanics at work that both thought is was a fuel problem. I think I have been through most of the fuel system. I only run Cam2 racing fuel in the kart,so my fuel stays pretty clean. I don`t want to have to worry about stale fuel and the exhaust smells sweet. Thanks for the help!

[BearsFan315]

I believe that is the bright neon yellow tube in my picture, comes from carb then runs to frame where it is secured.

see my picture above this is the carb vent. Then there is the other one (Crankcase Vent Tube - Black Rubber Hose in my picture) that runs from the Intake Manifold Pipe to the valve cover.

Could take carb off, clean it up blow out jets, make sure everything moves & float works, and replace all the gaskets, looks like 4 of them in that assembly. see pict, items 5, 6, 7, 8

a trick we use on the antique car for finding and sourcing air leaks in the intake/ carb area & gaskets.
we start it and while it is idling take a can of carb cleaner and with straw on the can spray it around the gasket/ carb area slowly and in one area at a time. [use short, directed puffs of carb cleaner to localize the leak] IF the engine smooths out/ picks up then that is where a leak is, as it is sucking in the cleaner and burning it. if nothing happens then no leak. worked more than once in finding a gasket leak !! unless you have a can of smoke and can watch it move around and get SUCKED in :)

[unknwn]

"....directed puffs of carb cleaner to localize the leak..."

I find that acetylene gas from a torch set works very well for this also.
I'd bet that propane or mapp gas would work too.
These methods have an advantage of not drying out and hardening rubber components and you can get the gases to areas that might require acrobatics to squirt aerosol substances around.

[Done Deal]

Thanks for all the help guys. It is going to a friends kart shop. I know I can trust him.

[BearsFan315]

let us know what they find out and how they fix it !!

[Done Deal]

Thanks for your help guys. Two car mechanics at work thought it was a fuel problem. They told me I was wasting my timing wanting to check compression. They were wrong. It had burnt a valve,no wonder power was down. I was running Cam2 gas in it,so it was probably my fault,not the carts. My buddy that owns and runs the cart shop shop had a 2010 290 engine that he hooked me up with. He only charged me $550 for the whole switch. It seemed like a good deal to me. I was just relieved to have it fixed. My campground open in 2 weeks. Thanks,Kurt!!

[BearsFan315]

So you are fixed and running again !!
that is great to hear, hopefully he will tear down and rebuild your old fe290 !!\\put it in stock for another day