troubleshooting a G1 that won't fire

[butterball]

I removed the cylinder. It is trashed, same as the piston. So, I need a new top end. I also checked the side to side sway at the top of the connecting rod. The manual says that it should be less than .79 inches, which actually should read .079 inches. There is a misprint in the manual. Mine measures .075, so it's just barely within tolerance. There is no noticeable up and down play, and nearly no side to side play. So, I assume that the bottom end is useable. (opinions would be appreciated). Also, is there a good way to flush out (clean the inside of) the crank cases without removing and disassembling the bottom end? Also, please tell me a few places that are good places to buy parts for the G1

[butterball]

I have ordered top end rebuild kit. In the meantime, I filled the crankcase full of ATF just to flush it out, and hopefully soften the seals. The ATF immediately began pouring out of both crankcase seals, just about as fast as I could pour it in. I guess pretty much tells the story about the seals, so I ordered them too.

[butterball]

OK, I have received my new top end and seals etc. I had previously filled the bottom end with ATF to flush it out. Now I can't find a drain plug anywhere. So, maybe I'm missing it, or maybe there isn't one, please advise. What is the easiest way to get it out of there?

[sontag1]

I am pretty sure there is not a drain on the G1 crankcase. I had part of the skirt on my piston chip off and I was advised to pull the crankcase, flush with mixed fuel a few times and dump it out (while screening it to hopefully find that chip), then add about a cup of straight 2 cycle oil and allow that to coat each bearing before dumping out the excess. I have not had a chance to do that yet....

I have read that you can crack the crankcase open with a regular puller (if you need to), but I have not done that either. I am a little green on the old two stroke as well. There is loads of info on the site that you can dig out with some reading.

[butterball]

I have now removed the engine from the cart. I have a new top end and new crankcase seals to install. The manual calls for several special tools for disassembly of the magneto, clutch, and crankcases. Since this is my first golf cart, I don't have any of the special tools. I don't want to buy any more of them than necessary, since I may not have any future use for them. Can any of you guide me here. I'll go ahead and buy the ones that are absolutely necessary. Where possible, however, I'd like to improvize, or substitute, or fabricate, etc. Any help, guidance, or advice will be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

[slonomo]

If you do some searching here you'll find all the info you need. Just click on the "search" button and try typing in stuff like "G1 engine rebuild" and "G1 engine/motor" that kind of thing, that's what I did. I didn't have any of the special tools either and I got through it.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...ting-cart.html

[85.G3]

Butterball, A small 3 way puller will get the mag side (use bolts thru the holes or hooks in the slots) but I bought the Yamaha puller for the clutch for about $30.00 or $40.00. If you have an impact wrench you won't need the holding tools. You can also stuff some rags in the spark plug hole to keep it from rotating, no problem if your replacing the top end anyway. Like mentioned above flush the bottom end several times with conventional premix gas and dump thru a rag or filter until it is clean, rotate the crank when it is full to loosen anything in there. Also agree/recommend dumping straight convention oil in the bottom end before closing it up, tilt side to side and rotate the crank to soak the bearings on both sides, it will smoke at start up but just clean the plug after breakin. Also use conventional oil for break in, then switch to synthetic if you want. There is probably a butterfly valve in the exhaust port flange that is supposed to slow the cart on downhills, I would tack weld it at 90 degrees full open and remove the linkage.

[butterball]

OK, I got everything apart and cleaned up. Will install new seals today, and start into the top end rebuild.

[butterball]

Success, Today, I reinstalled the engine and re-connected the wiring. It fired right up using a temporary gravity feed gas tank. Running it that way, I discovered that the fuel pump is working OK, but the oil pump is not working at all. So, I think that I'll just premix my fuel and oil, and not use the automatic oiling system. I assume that I should block off the oil input port on the carburetor. Is this correct? Also, what would you guys recommend as a good all around ratio for the fuel:oil mix? This list has been a big help to me in rebuilding my first golf cart engine. Tomorrow I'll re-install all of the plastic shroud covers and it will be finished. Thanks to all of you.

[85.G3]

I would cap the oil injector port at the carb and break in with 2 gallons of the conventional oil premix oil at 50:1 then switch to Amsoil Synthetic at 85:1. Be careful to not mix oils at the switch. That's just MHO I am sure others have their own preference. Glad to see you are running