secondary clutch vibrating and belt not riding all the way down

[cgtech]

Yep, this one was a "cut sheave" and had a super-heavy white spring on it.

[CookedTick]

I had a g9 that had a bu clutch never had no problem. My first g16 had a bu clutch and again no problems. i got the oem replacement ones

[ski-doo583]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Yep, this one was a "cut sheave" and had a super-heavy white spring on it.

Because it's been modified.

[cgtech]

That one had stock motor, not high horsepower. Thats why i suggest Yamaha oem clutches, and the oem yamaha umax hd spring as the upgrade. Never those huge heavy springs. The cart in question has also been modified, but not high hp motor.

[sho305]

I have this one, it is heavy meaning it is thick. That also means you get more life out of it before the belt wears through it. I've hit 38mph gps with my clone so far, has a few years on it now, no problems and very happy with it. Lists at $85 right now.

I don't know if you need a cut sheave, it gives you more power under about 5mph. You will have better power on steep slow hills or starting on a hill, towing, and holeshots because you reach shift rpm faster. It does nothing for you at high speeds it just gives a lower 'first gear'. It works well with stock or clone power I ran it on both. Its even nicer with the HD kevlar belt they have and umax spring, that is how I run it. Note my clone is installed to use stock belt size.

The huge heavy springs on ebay and some cart dealers are problematic. The secondary was never designed for a big spring the umax is the largest factory spring. There is a reason you need to ratchet strap the clutch together with a big spring that wants to make it blow apart, because that is what it is trying to do. They work for people doing farm work/etc that don't care about speed, but they are not good for your secondary clutch. If your clutches are working properly you should not need one, it should rev any time and deliver your max huge 9hp except if you are stopped or <5mph and that is when the cut sheave helps. If you want more you should drop a larger engine in there because that is the real problem when it comes to lack of power. Or as in many cases, your 20-30 year old clutches that never been touched need some repair.

When I was younger was over a fleet of G1 for a time. Many of them you could drive against a car tire in the parking lot and smoke the rear tire they had so much power, completely 100% stock, <6 yr old. While that was 18 inch stock tire, just goes to show how they are when they function properly. They would not with two riders, but one person the right tire would smoke on pavement. G1 was around 9hp just like newer 4 cycles, though the clutch did have a spring in the primary that helped.

[ski-doo583]

Originally Posted by sho305

I have this one, it is heavy meaning it is thick. That also means you get more life out of it before the belt wears through it. I've hit 38mph gps with my clone so far, has a few years on it now, no problems and very happy with it. Lists at $85 right now.



I don't know if you need a cut sheave, it gives you more power under about 5mph. You will have better power on steep slow hills or starting on a hill, towing, and holeshots because you reach shift rpm faster. It does nothing for you at high speeds it just gives a lower 'first gear'. It works well with stock or clone power I ran it on both. Its even nicer with the HD kevlar belt they have and umax spring, that is how I run it. Note my clone is installed to use stock belt size.



The huge heavy springs on ebay and some cart dealers are problematic. The secondary was never designed for a big spring the umax is the largest factory spring. There is a reason you need to ratchet strap the clutch together with a big spring that wants to make it blow apart, because that is what it is trying to do. They work for people doing farm work/etc that don't care about speed, but they are not good for your secondary clutch. If your clutches are working properly you should not need one, it should rev any time and deliver your max huge 9hp except if you are stopped or <5mph and that is when the cut sheave helps. If you want more you should drop a larger engine in there because that is the real problem when it comes to lack of power. Or as in many cases, your 20-30 year old clutches that never been touched need some repair.



When I was younger was over a fleet of G1 for a time. Many of them you could drive against a car tire in the parking lot and smoke the rear tire they had so much power, completely 100% stock, <6 yr old. While that was 18 inch stock tire, just goes to show how they are when they function properly. They would not with two riders, but one person the right tire would smoke on pavement. G1 was around 9hp just like newer 4 cycles, though the clutch did have a spring in the primary that helped.

I've been selling and installing the g boost clutch kits for about three years now.
And almost every costumer that had one installed called back just to say how impressed they were

I Haven't seen much talk on hear about that brand.

[BIGBREW]

I think I have that red spring, bought it off ebay, cant remember where it came from honestly, I don't think we used a key with it, but it works fine. My cart is not high performance, its for putting around the camp ground and if I spill my beer I take it to the lake and throw a bucket of water on it.

[sho305]

Originally Posted by ski-doo583

I've been selling and installing the g boost clutch kits for about three years now.
And almost every costumer that had one installed called back just to say how impressed they were

I Haven't seen much talk on hear about that brand.

Lol, the HD kevlar belt I run from CPP is an Erlandson, which now changed its name to g-boost last I read. I do see a $250 clutch kit and it says HD belt but does not say what else comes with it. Most of their kits are for 96 and newer carts.

I also have a stock Erlandson belt I've run. I like their belts the kevlar is a really nice piece, certainly a utv belt, double cogged too, and has not worn like normal belts do.

That all said my cut sheave and umax and belt make it run much differently than stock, and don't cost that much maybe around 150 for all three I think and that includes a brand new heavy sheave. Some say their plowman kits work better than umax does, I don't know, I tossed a 94c on it and that unbalanced everything. It is working better now but I've tuned on it for over a year to get it that far. Its not the most ideal clutch for a cart, but it works and the price was right lol.

[CAMPERCART2013]

Originally Posted by Foste37

The cart has great torque, but at higher speeds around 15 mph a vibration occurs. I replaced the belt and the primary. When I look into the sheaves of driven I noticed the belt never reaches to the bottom. I also noticed that it is not in the proper location to ride on the little "kisser" buttons. Its on the complete other side of the helix. I can grab both sides of the driven and rotate them, is this normal?

Not sure if the red spring is too strong for my application and thats why it doesn't open all the way or if there is another problem. Picture is attached.

Cart is 1996 yamaha g16. Lifted with bigger tires, besides that stock.
top speed is maybe 18-20 mph with the governor cranked.

Not sure if anyone noticed or not but ramp shoes are on wrong side of sheave might be cause of problem

[Mike Mac]

Camp, I assuming their are no tangs on that spring, so, when power is applied, the sheave slides around to the shoes, like my Plowmans does!! (And yours)!!