G-16 Secondary Sheave noise

[Riverrat59]

I think I finally found the source of the godawful noise coming from my cart. Shortly after buying my cart, I installed a Jake's power kit (along with a lift kit & wheels). The noise got progressively worse.

I took the cart to two different shops to diagnose and fix the problem. One replaced the primary clutch and installed the wrong belt. The other shop replaced the damaged, too tight belt. They said the secondary sheave was okay, just noisy. I decided to tear into the cart this afternoon.

The secondary sheave oil seals were in bad shape, the grease fitting had not been passing grease, the bushing looks like it is pretty worn ( lots of copper particles ) The input shaft looks like it didn't get greased, was rusty

My question is can I buy replacement seals & bushing? The Yamaha parts catalogue show an entire kit including the sheave which I don't need.

[sho305]

http://www.tntgolfcar.com/yamparts.php?diagramid=85
# 6 is the whole sheave, but they list the bushing and seals #4 and #5, $27 though.

However I would get one of these: http://www.cartpartsplus.com/machine...thru-g-22.html

It might be cheaper to get in a kit if you want a spring and spacer too.

[Riverrat59]

Thanks sho305. Hopefully the relplacement of these parts and proper greasing of the input shaft will resolve this aggravating noise problem.

If it does, next project will be a big block upgrade. 9hp doesn't motivate the cart up our hills to my satisfaction.

[sho305]

Well I would agree with that, I'm dropping a 16hp clone in my cart in the spring. I already did another G9 for family. There is no comparison, I mean you are not going to pull the front down the road, but its like twice the power of stock. In that case most people take the torque spring out of the secondary with a larger engine, but the one I did has the cut sheave in it only and it seems to work great. What happens is it gets into '1st gear' faster because its lower, and with the extra power, it hits shift rpm in a few foot and off you go. It is way faster off the line and I think the sheave has a part in that for sure as well as the extra power making it shift/move faster. It drives pretty normal, but if you hammer it from a stop within 2 seconds its at shift rpm and you are gone. The stock cart takes a while to get up to rpm and get going....and the clutches are stock rebuilt aside from the sheave. I plan to use the same setup, however I have cut the ramps on mine and that helped low speed power a lot so I might keep that.

[Riverrat59]

I should have ordered the secondary sheave kit. Instead, I ordered the individual parts. Now, I realize that I don't know how to remove the old bushing. I tried tapping it out with a socket & rubber mallet. Any suggestions on how to remove the old bushing and/or install the new bushing?

[craig tn]

I have never done it , but have heard mention of freezing the bushing when installing the new one.

[Riverrat59]

Thanks, Yep I've done that before with bearings. Heat the holder and freeze the bearing. Now trying to figure out how to remove bushing without damaging sheave or having to drive all the way to town & have someone else do it.

[smallblock450sl]

Originally Posted by Riverrat59

Thanks, Yep I've done that before with bearings. Heat the holder and freeze the bearing. Now trying to figure out how to remove bushing without damaging sheave or having to drive all the way to town & have someone else do it.

I'm asuming you don't have a "hydrolic press". A 1/2" drive 9/16 socket is very close to the bushing size. You could try tapping out the bushing that way. Align the "split" in the new bushing with the zerk fitting when installing, just make shure you don't damage the bushing end when installing.