Kawasaki FE290D - Head Gasket Leak

[Chucker]

I have a 1999 Club Car DS with a Kawasaki FE290D-AS17 that has developed an oil leak.

Running it in service mode, there is a fine mist spray of oil once it gets up to temp coming from the Clutch side while it is at high RPM.

I am assuming it is a head gasket leak and I am going to attempt changing the head gasket with the engine in the cart.

So, before I mess anything up, besides making sure that the piston is all the way down out of the top jug, is there anything else I need to worry about before removing the head ?

I am also assuming that the top of the piston will be in the engine block and not in the cylinder or at least low enough that the rings will remain in place in the block. Am I correct in this assumption ?

I appreciate any and all guidance !

[lockman1]

The Jug (cylinder wall) is part of the block, when you remove the head bolts, only the head will come off!

Before you start... do a compression test,
it should be close to 156 psi for a pedal start, and 71 psi for a key start (w/ACR) cart.
it could be a leak from somewhere else!

[meimk]

Those are known for side cover gasket leaks. If you look closely you'll see that the section behind the clutch is a separate cover. Usually the leak starts around the base of the cylinder jug section of the block, just a little above where the oil dipstick tube goes. Inside that side cover the camshaft gear is spinning close to that edge and will suck the gasket in at that closest point, allowing the leak. It's common enough that I do several of those each summer season. Best to replace the seal behind the clutch while you're at it. I don't think it's possible without pulling the engine out though. It's not as difficult as it might seem to get it out.

[Chucker]

Thanks for the replies people !

Yes, it does appear to be Side Cover Gasket.

Does the clutch have to be pulled to get at the side cover ?

I pulled a engine out of a buddies Yamaha last winter and everyone on here helped me rebuilt it with new rings and gaskets, so pulling this one will not be an issue either.

Just wanted the experts advice. No sense pulling if there is a way to perform the task in frame.

Thanks again for the advice !

Chucker

[lockman1]

To do it right, it's best to pull the engine from the cart, and yes... you'll have to pull the drive clutch also!

[Fairtax4me]

To each his own, but I much prefer to do engine work with the engine on a stand or bench where it's easily accessible, rather than reaching over and down into the cart for hours. Its a handful of bolts and some wire connections, then some cables and intake tube and fuel line, and the whole powertrain (engine transaxle) drops down out of the cart. Then you just raise the cart up and slide the engine out from underneath. Removing the side cover isn't particularly difficult once the drive clutch is off. Removing the drive clutch can be a real chore, order a puller and it'll save you some headache.

[Chucker]

As always, thanks for the insight.

I have a clutch puller from a Yamaha that I rebuilt last year, not sure if it will fit, if not, I'll just order one.

Was trying to "repair" it while it is at the lake without having to bring it back home to work on it in the shop.

Oh well.....that's what trailers are for !

Thanks All !!!