yamaha g16e won't run

[tcb2020]

I have a yamaha g16e that i have replaced the solenoid, forward and reverse switch and also the diodes. I think the controller may be the issue but i would appreciate some help confirming that. I have full pack voltage on my solenoid terminal on the controller as well as the a2 terminal. However i have no power on the brown wire, yellow wire, or the yellow/black wire coming off the controller. Am i correct in thinking this is the controller causing the issue?

[biphase]

Originally Posted by tcb2020

I have a yamaha g16e that i have replaced the solenoid, forward and reverse switch and also the diodes. I think the controller may be the issue but i would appreciate some help confirming that. I have full pack voltage on my solenoid terminal on the controller as well as the a2 terminal. However i have no power on the brown wire, yellow wire, or the yellow/black wire coming off the controller. Am i correct in thinking this is the controller causing the issue?

The brown wire is a 36 volt INPUT to the controller and the controller will not work if it is not present.

The yellow wire and the yellow/black wire lead back to a microswitch which is part of the F/R assembly. The microswitch should be closed, connecting the two wires together, when the cart is in FWD or REV. The switch should be open in NEUTRAL.

[tcb2020]

with the key on and the cart in neutral i have 21 volts on the yellow wire and 36 at the brown wire i read the wrong side of the brown wire before.

[biphase]

If you put the cart in FWD or REV the voltage on the yellow wires should drop to zero. Of course I assume you are measuring these voltages with the connectors connected together.

You can bypass the controller by using a heavy jumper cable to connect A2 on the motor to B- When you step on the pedal and the solenoid clicks the cart will run FULL SPEED so only attempt this with the wheels off the ground.

[tcb2020]

yes i am taking the readings with the connectors connected, my other question is by b- do you mean the main negative terminal on the battery pack or the b- on the controller or does it matter?

[tcb2020]

i bypassed it like you said and it turned the wheels but the key was off and no solenoid click what does that tell me though? i knew that the motor was good.

[biphase]

You can connect to B- at either location.

It should not turn the wheels until the solenoid clicks as there is no source of sustained power until that happens. You may have experienced a very short duration pulse of power stored in the capacitor inside the controller. Was the operation sustained or just a few turns?

Bypassing the controller helps to narrow down the suspects. If the cart runs, you have narrowed down the problem to the controller itself or one of those small signal wires (brwn, y,y/b) or (wht, grn, blu)

[biphase]

Does the voltage on the yellow wires go to zero when in FWD or REV ?

[tcb2020]

yes the voltage drops to zero but i hooked it up again this morning and with the key off from a2 on the motor to b- on the battery pack it continued to run at full speed for 15-20 seconds and didnt stop until we unhooked it. i didnt have to press the key pedal or anything so im not sure whats up with that.

[biphase]

Originally Posted by tcb2020

yes the voltage drops to zero but i hooked it up again this morning and with the key off from a2 on the motor to b- on the battery pack it continued to run at full speed for 15-20 seconds and didnt stop until we unhooked it. i didnt have to press the key pedal or anything so im not sure whats up with that.

That can only mean that your solenoid is constantly engaged, bypassed or welded. Remove the jumper and turn on the key. Do you hear an audible click and release when you step on the pedal?

What voltage do you read when you put the meter leads across the two large bolts on the solenoid?