need someone who has disassembled a PG2 (1988)

[BrewCityMusic]

Here's my situation, I have no consistant spark, and at this junction I have basically replaced EVERYTHING on the firewall (coil, switches, regulator, solenoid, igniter, wires, etc) as well as having disassembled and thoroughly cleaned all connections - however I just noticed something today that might be a problem ...

There is no nut on the end of the engine shaft (I can see the flywheel, obviously, and the threaded shaft - but no nut, nothing) !!!

IS IT POSSIBLE that the flywheel has crept out due to no nut, and is not allowing the pulsar/flywheel magnets to do their thing due to too large of a gap? From what I can see in the parts manual, the only thing holding the flywheel in place is that missing nut, could I have finally found the problem? There are also 2 threaded holes on the flywheel I can see, but I assume those are there for use in pulling the flywheel - anyone want to comment?

If that's the actual problem, I am going to feel like SUCH an idiot, so go easy on me, also any ideas the size and thread count of that nut so I can get another one?

[Dave Box]

I have disassembled a 1986 2PG I am sure that it is the same thing. Yes indeed there should be a nut on there and yes it is possible that the flywheel has slide forward. If it has then you should see a gap between the flywheel and the lip on the crankcase half. In any case this might be a good opportunity to pull the flywheel and inspect the pulsar and its wires. (Make sure that you do not lose the woodruff key which might fall out as the flywheel comes off). You are also correct that the two holes are for the puller. Do not be tempted to use a screwdriver to jemmy the flywheel off, you will break the lip on the crankcase (please don't ask me how I know this). As I mentioned in a previous post my insulation was cracked down to bare wire, I wrapped both wires in electrians tape and never looked back. BTW you didn't mention it but there is a plastic fan bolted to the flywheel isn't there?

All the best
Dave Box

[BRICKY]

Hi all, i just got a 1988 ec25 / 2pg not running. Thier is no spark plug in it. Can somebody tell whatspark plug it takes and what the compression should be. Thanks inadvance for all help.
Cliff

[BrewCityMusic]

I run Autolite 275's in my 88 (any Advance Auto stocks them, unlike the NGK's which generally have to be special ordered) - also 150lbs is right where you want to be in forward and reverse (test both ways, just to be safe)

[BrewCityMusic]

Thanks for reinforcing my fears, Dave, LMAO ... I just made a puller and I'm going to try and track down a nut/washer tomorrow, as long as it doesn't turn into an all-day event I will take your advice and peek behind the flywheel, just to REALLY be sure everything is in order ...

You wouldn't want to grab a thread gauge and pull that nut for me so I buy the right one the first time, would you? (Just Kidding - I'll just buy everything around the size and try em all til something fits, at this point I just don't CARE anymore, I wanna RIDE!)

Thanks again!

[Dave Box]

Between then and now I looked at my manual but sadly it doesn't go into enough detail to break the crankshaft down to parts. Not to throw a wrench into the works (there's irony for you) but I am fairly certain that a Japanese engine will have metric nuts and bolts. If you are going to collect various sizes a metric equivalent may be required.
Good Luck

[BrewCityMusic]

I was leaning towards metric myself, Dave - good call (considering all the mounting bolts, etc are US but anything directly engine-related seem to be metric)

[BRICKY]

Originally Posted by BrewCityMusic

I run Autolite 275's in my 88 (any Advance Auto stocks them, unlike the NGK's which generally have to be special ordered) - also 150lbs is right where you want to be in forward and reverse (test both ways, just to be safe)

I have 135lbs whats your thoughts?

Cliff

[BrewCityMusic]

Don't quote me on this, but if I recall correctly anything above 130-ish is still considered OK (I think that's the number I read on another forum) ... either way, it should at least run at that compression, which will allow you to test the crank seals and see if they're shot or if you need to look at the top end

[BrewCityMusic]

BTW, to test the seals, get the cart running and jack up the rear, then start it and have someone hold the pedal at a low steady rpm, then spray a shot of carb cleaner, WD40, etc at the seals (the fan and in back at the rear of the motor) - if your RPM's go up, the seals are shot and drawing in air